I would do bot parts on the table.
Cut the channel first.
1. cut a dado or use a straight bit to hog out most of the channel.
2. Setup a bit to the height you want.
3. I prefer to not have the piece ride against the fence as it cuts
because the cutter can chatter a bit when you do that. So use a miter
gauge or sled.
If you use a miter guage, setup a guage block on the fence (like when
cross cutting on a TS) so you use it to index the location but the part
will be free of it once you push forward to start the cut.
If you use a sled, then you can set a stop block on the outside, if the
piece is short enough.
4. Cut some extras is scrap of same material so you don't gouge out
real ones when trying out pins.
Next cut the pins.
1. Leave the cutter at the same height.
2. Use a tall fence or other help to keep vertical piece vertical.
3. Make sure all pieces of stock are exact same thickness.
4. Have lots o' extra
5. Do a first pass on real pieces and a few extras with a very shallow
cut, only cutting about the top half of the cutter. The biggest problem
with long pins is getting chipout at the top of the cutter if you cut
too deep first, so a thin cut that just scores the top edge is a great
help. Cut some extras too, just for kicks.
6. If you want the pins dead center, then you need to make very fine
adjustments using test pieces and cutting both sides until you dial it
in. If you aren't so worried about that, draw out the pin on the end of
on piece, setup to cut one side and cut them all, plus some extras.
Then when you make adjustments to get the other side to fit it is 1/2
as sensitive to the fence movements (if that makes sense.
You can see a sample of a product I make that uses sliders. I've made
maybe 100 of these babies over the past few years but I'm considering
marketing them heavily once I get my Multirouter ;^). Click on the
Sushi Geta picture for a close up view.