I'd like to try making a small compass rose out of different color
veneers similar (but simpler) to the one shown here:
Does anyone know of a good reference for doing this? Do I use an
Yep,I'll go along with the router,just done a trinket box with some
However not so intricate as the one the OP has outlined.
The way to do it is cutout a template put the template over the desired
wood draw round it then cut out with router.
Aquire the Veneer what you want to use,using the template again position
the template of each section(spike) and cut the veneer to shape,cut the
spike in half and do the same process with a lighter piece of veneer.
Each time you cut a (spike) shape out you have two halves of each coloured
veneer to glue in the (spike) shapes.
Hope this helps a bit?
Here's a more simplistic way of doing it without the router.
Take that picture of the rose into a paint program or any program that will
allow you to print it out in B&W.
Size the print out what size you want the rose,print it out and the using a
craft knife just cut out the shape.
Choose a sheet of dark background veneer the size you want the rose square.
Position printout template over over square veneer
and draw round the template with a fine pencil then cutout the shape with a
Now all you have to do is fill in the shape with two lighter colours of the
shape(spikes) using the cut out from the template or veneer cutout.
Damn! forgot the ending sequence :-)
Choose a piece of wood or box(if your wanting it on a box)?
Glue and press the square with rose shape to wood/box and let it set
Start glueing and filling in the shape with spikes.
All done. :-)
If you're going the non-router route, I've heard that a rotary cutter
(like you'd get at a fabric store) is a good way to cut veneer. If you
or, say, a spouse, is on the mailing list for Jo-Ann fabrics, they
frequently send out 40% off anything coupons, so this would be a good
way to get one for a good price. (Note - these coupons are also a
cheap way to get 4oz bottles of Gorilla Glue)
A rotary cutter is also available at Lee Valley, cheaper than the list
prices at JoAnn's.
Good luck and let us know how your compass rose comes out,
I actually did that exact project just for sh**s and grins a couple of
years ago, and I can tell you one or two useful things about it.
First off, the X-acto knife will work fine for veneer, but if you
simply apply the veneer to a piece of wood, be very careful with your
glue- veneer is thin enough that you're likely to sand or scrape right
through it if you need to clean it up.
That isn't the way I did it, though- I went the full inlay route, and
I liked the result enough to do several others. I sawed "veneers"
about 1/4" thick out of scrap for the various projects with the
bandsaw (though a table saw or even a circular saw will work for this
so long as you've got a steady hand and some clamps) and rough cut the
pieces to about 1/8" away from the line and sanded them to the
finished dimentions. Then I laid them face down and taped the
finished pieces together to preview the work, flipped them face up
onto the piece and traced the outline for the inlay recess. Excavate
the bulk of the material in the recess with a router set to 3/32"
deep, cut along the lines with a sharp utility or x-acto knife, then
carefully pare away the points' tips in the recess with a chisel,
Dremel tool with a carving burr (set to low speed) or that same X-acto
knife we were talking about earlier. Perfection is good, but don't
get too hung up on it- the area excavated with the router will provide
plenty of good glue surface for the inlay. I removed the tape before
setting the inlays, but I suppose you could leave it in. However you
do it, get the inlay set into the cavity on a nice thin bed of glue,
then place a flat piece of scrap over the top and give it a few raps
with a mallet to make sure things are seated all the way in.
Lay a piece of wax paper over the inlay, and then sandwich the work
between two pieces of scrap and clamp it tightly. (The wax paper
prevents the squeeze out from gluing the scrap to your inlay, a
plastic bag works also)
After it's set, take your sandwich apart and scrape or sand the
surface until the inlay is flush with the surface of your piece. It's
a lot smoother than laying on veneer, can be refinished later if
desired, and is much more durable than the marquetry technique.
It's really not hard, you just need to have a bit of patience, and
maybe a magnifying glass if your eyesight is a little weak. If you
don't have a router, you can always excavate an inlay recess with a
good sharp chisel- the rule for all of it is patience. If you're in a
hurry, not even just painting with veneers is going to work out the
way you'd like it to.
There are two techniques - knife and router. Router would be hard for
this as it's not possible to do a sharp internal corner with it. As
that's the hardest part of the knife technique, then use the knife from
the start -- it's all straight line work anyway.
You'll find a first compass rose easier if you don't try to inset the
star into a solid piece of veneer, but instead cut the outer part into
segments as well. This avoids those awkward interior corners. Apart
from that, it's an easy piece to do and a good starting point - easier
When you come to inlay the finished oval into a piece of furniture,
then that's a good time to use the router. A Dremel or clone with the
Dremel tile cutting base makes a good (and cheap) starting point, or
you can buy a real router base for it with better adjustments. Don't
try to use a real router, they're much too big and heavy to control.
Zachary Taylors' Inlaying book is my favourite for this, but there are
No, they're expensive and not very good. Use a surgeon's scalpel
instead - cheap at any arts shop. Get a couple of different shapes and
a couple of the real metal handles in the large standard length size.
It's a lot simpler than it looks. I made one for the cover of a
I used single-edged razor blades (from Ace Hardware . . . get a box and
change blades frequently . . . they get dull). Use veneers with contrasting
colors AND NO ELABORATE GRAIN. Material with burled grain tends to fall
apart. You'll also need a roll of paper veneer tape.
Draw the compass rose on a piece of heavy stock paper or cardboard, then cut
out the pieces to make a template. Draw the outline of the pieces on the
veneer with the grain oriented in the direction of the radiants. Stick the
veneer pieces together with little pieces of veneer tape to form the rose.
The tape will be on the "up side" (the visable side) of the rose. When the
rose is assembled (it will look messy as hell), trace it's outline on the
background veneer, cut out the hole that the rose will fit into and then
affix it into the background with more veneer tape. If you have worked
carefully, the gaps between the elements of the rose and between the rose
and the background will be insignificant.
To affix the veneer to whatever it is that you are decorating (a box or a
table), get a small, cheap, short bristled paint brush and a bottle of
woodworkers glue (Titebond or some such). Give both the object and the
veneer a coat of glue. Let it dry. Give it another coat . . . and maybe a
third. When the glue has dried thoroughly, it will be thermoplastic (it
melts and re-solidifies when heated). Put the veneer on the base and iron
it on with a hot clothes iron (set for cotton).
Then, to clean up, scrape off as much of the tape on the surface as you can,
and sand the rest off. Don't get carried away sanding the rose. It's easy
to go all the way through the veneer. You'll be amazed at how close the fit
is between the pieces. Sawdust seems to act as a filler between the pieces.
Finish up with several coats of Deft or some other lacquer.
I posted a template and a couple of examples of a Compass Rose on to
Alt.Binaries.pictures.woodworking (Search on Compass Rose to find).
I like to use a heavy engineering straight-rule as a guide for my
--------------------------------- --- -- -
Posted with NewsLeecher v3.7 Final
Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
------------------- ----- ---- -- -
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.