How to Layout Inset Drawers

[foster239]

I am building a buffet with 6 inset drawers of QSW Oak. They will slide on wooden drawer supports. The drawers are graduated from 4.5" to 6.0" in half inch increments. (3@4.5", 1@5.0", 1@5.5",

1@6.0"). I have not made dovetailed drawers before but I plan to practice a lot. I will use a D4 Leigh Jig to make both half blind front dovetails and through back dovetails. The fronts will be approx. 13/16" thick and the sides and backs will be approx. 5/8" thick.

I need to know how to layout the drawers, i.e., the dimensions I should use when cutting my stock before I cut the dovetails. For example, how long, high and deep should I make the fronts, sides and backs before I cut the dovetails? Does have any advice (I'm sure you will!) or know of articles or books describing how to layout these drawers?

Thanks,

foster239

[brianlanning]

Just look at the D4 manual, it's awesome. I guess I really never gave layout much thought. The D4 is so versatile, I just made the fronts, sides, and backs whatever size I wanted and the D4 just accomodated it. I can't remember the maximum thicknesses that you can put in the D4, but I know what you mentioned will work. Just pop the boards in there and pick a cutter that will give you the dovetail shape you want.

Maybe you're after design info? Like what's a standard size or shape for a dovetail based on the thickness of the stock? What are you really asking for?

brian

[Teamcasa]

You mean like these?

See bottom of page.

I made them with the same Leigh Jig. Suggestions: Make the frame first. Make the drawer faces second and watch for grain and orientation. Make them a 1/16" wider and taller. Plane to fit perfectly. Cutting the stock is simple. Cut them the height (+1/16") and length you want PLUS the thickness of the back and 1/2" for the half blind dovetail in the front. I made drawer guides using the same dovetail bit in the router table. Works great. Generally the drawer length is not to critical however, height and width is determined by the opening.

Dave

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[charlie b]

You didn't say if you're going with through or half blind dovetails. Throughs are easier since the sides are the desired depth of the drawer whereas with half blinds it depends on the thickness of your drawer front and the depth of the tails into the side of the drawer front.

But the depth isn't critical - if you're going to leave room for a drawer stop in the back.

Since you have the drawer openings already, work directly off each one. Got this method from Frank Klausz's video on making a handcut dovetail drawer

half blinds here's the side measurement vs the drawer opening depth problem (bottom of page and the next page)

a hand plane if you don't already have one - or several. A block plane is handy to fine tune the fit - if you start tight and remove wood to fit.

hope this helps charlie b