How to get burn-free cuts?

Try coating your cutter with some petroleum jelly.

Maple has a sugar-like compound in it that carbonizes when heated and the lubrication helps to retard this.

Tom Watson

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Reply to
Tom Watson
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Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?

Reply to
Steve Turner

I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.

Reply to
Lowell Holmes

I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would cause a safety issue.

Reply to
Nova

It raises the question of why a second featherboard might improve matters. The specific concern would be the straightness of the fence or stock.

Reply to
MikeWhy

Ah yes, gotcha. I glossed over that part. :-)

Reply to
Steve Turner

...long ago when carbide was a potential, we used WD40 to lube blades when doing alot of Skilsaw ripping. That technique stuck with me and I use the stuff to this day when called for...like when ripping maple or any super dense wood. While the substance may help (and it does) there is no substitute for a *steady* and consistent feed. When preparing to rip longer material, I always review my footwork and hand positioning...burns still occur on occasion, though, so leaving a little extra to re-rip or joint is good CYA. ;0-)

cg

Reply to
Charlie Groh

Are you using a blade stabilizer? If so, remove it and try again. The stabilizer, its like a large 4" washer, isn't recommended by blade producers, or at least Freund doesn't. The symtom I had was burn marks on the side of the blade opposite the fence. I was using a sled and kept burning the wood on the trailing edge of the blade. Removed the stabilizer and problem disappeared.

Otoe

Reply to
Otoe

Keep the blade free of pitch and gum. I also agree with a slight extra angle on the outfeed side of the fence (probably less than the .030" suggested, it's actually just some amount you can visually detect: Heck, the Biesemeyer fences are not even that consistently accurate for high-volume use [insert argument here]), but it will also depend on which side of the board is going to warp toward the blade when cut and the grain releases. Kind of a crapshoot. We use a lot of maple in our shop and have to deal with this. No complete answer.

Reply to
RM MS

The second feather board would help in eliminating any operator error of rotating the stock away from the fence while feeding the piece through the blade, in particular while changing hands or switching over to a push stick.

Reply to
Nova

Exactly. This cut is so good I use it for glue up without using my joint er.

Reply to
klaatu

I am using a stabilizer, Forrest WW2 blade. Kerf is 0.100". Forrest strongly recommends stabilizer for this blade. Having said that, I came across a post, "Charlie Groh" (see cut-and-paste below) on Tenyru's Gold Medal saw blade, kerf

0.111". (BTW, Tenyru's is made in Japan). Since I don't print greenbacks; thinking hard which one to adds to my collection. Tenyru - $84, Oldham Signature Series (40T) $49.00 or, a new Forrest blade a flat-tip (good for making feather board) duno how much it cost.

(On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:49:47 -0800, Charlie Groh) Re: Saw Blade: value of flat?

...great advice. I own two Forrest blades: a WWII 40 tooth ATB thick kerf and an 80 tooth 12" Chopmaster. Both have performed as advertised ...I've had the runout checked on the TS blade and they (Accurate Cut Carbide in Salt Lake City) adjusted it with no probs...I've resharpened 2 or 3 times. Fine products. That said, I ran into a brand named "Tenyru" that are the finest I've seen yet...I know, not USA, but what a great blade. I use the "Gold Medal" 10" 40 tooth on my TS and kinda alternate with the Forrest and always end up going back to the Tenyru. Got a melamine-design 10" 100 tooth that is phenomenal. FWIW...stick with what works for *you!*

cg

Reply to
WD

...just to follow this up...the Forrest 24 tooth is now back on the saw...they're in a battle to the finish!

cg

Reply to
Charlie Groh

I flew from Hartford to Harrisburg, PA and back in a small, twin-engined aircraft Friday. Even with the gasoline powered Janitrol heater cranked, flannel lined jeans, and three shirts, I froze @ only 5000 feet.

Normally, we can do burgers on the heater grate!

Reply to
B A R R Y

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