How to get burn-free cuts?

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Many intervening factors.
Sharp blade Proper blade ripping blade with fewer teet and big gullets for clearing stock Fast feed rate Enough HP to support the required feed rate This kerf helps with the HP issue Freud or CMT coated blades help with the HP issue
You should be able to get no burn if you can feed fast enough.

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On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:11:09 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"

[...snip...]
And clean the pitch off the blade.
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When faced with this, I will make the first cut 1/32" large and then either cut it at the exact width, or run it across the jointer.
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On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 19:45:52 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"

That's what I do too. I also use feather boards in front and in back of the blade for this 1/32 cut. Plus, a steady feed rate is important.
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klaatu wrote:

Why would you use a featherboard in *back* of the blade?
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wrote:

I'm sure he meant on the left side of the blade for both feather boards.
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Lowell Holmes wrote:

I the case of shaving 1/32" of the edge of a board that was previously ripped 1/32" oversized there would be no off-cut other than dust. A feather board placed behind the blade would serve to hold the stock firmly against the rear of the fence. I don't see where this would cause a safety issue.
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wrote:

It raises the question of why a second featherboard might improve matters. The specific concern would be the straightness of the fence or stock.
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MikeWhy wrote:

The second feather board would help in eliminating any operator error of rotating the stock away from the fence while feeding the piece through the blade, in particular while changing hands or switching over to a push stick.
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Jack Novak
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Nova wrote:

Ah yes, gotcha. I glossed over that part. :-)
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Exactly. This cut is so good I use it for glue up without using my joint er.
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Are you using a blade stabilizer? If so, remove it and try again. The stabilizer, its like a large 4" washer, isn't recommended by blade producers, or at least Freund doesn't. The symtom I had was burn marks on the side of the blade opposite the fence. I was using a sled and kept burning the wood on the trailing edge of the blade. Removed the stabilizer and problem disappeared.
Otoe
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I am using a stabilizer, Forrest WW2 blade. Kerf is 0.100". Forrest strongly recommends stabilizer for this blade. Having said that, I came across a post, "Charlie Groh" (see cut-and-paste below) on Tenyru's Gold Medal saw blade, kerf 0.111". (BTW, Tenyru's is made in Japan). Since I don't print greenbacks; thinking hard which one to adds to my collection. Tenyru - $84, Oldham Signature Series (40T) $49.00 or, a new Forrest blade a flat-tip (good for making feather board) duno how much it cost.
(On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:49:47 -0800, Charlie Groh) Re: Saw Blade: value of flat?
...great advice. I own two Forrest blades: a WWII 40 tooth ATB thick kerf and an 80 tooth 12" Chopmaster. Both have performed as advertised ...I've had the runout checked on the TS blade and they (Accurate Cut Carbide in Salt Lake City) adjusted it with no probs...I've resharpened 2 or 3 times. Fine products. That said, I ran into a brand named "Tenyru" that are the finest I've seen yet...I know, not USA, but what a great blade. I use the "Gold Medal" 10" 40 tooth on my TS and kinda alternate with the Forrest and always end up going back to the Tenyru. Got a melamine-design 10" 100 tooth that is phenomenal. FWIW...stick with what works for *you!*
cg
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...just to follow this up...the Forrest 24 tooth is now back on the saw...they're in a battle to the finish!
cg
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