I have a 1920's home that has sah and casement windows that have a
million coats of paint on them. Rather than struggle trying to strip
lead based paint I was considering making replacements so I'm lookig
for a site that will show plans and techniques for building sash and
casement windows. Any and all help appreciated.
Strip the paint !
Even if it's lead based, paint is easy to strip with modern chemical
strippers. There's a lead hazard if you do it with a blowtorch and
scraper or by sanding, but not if you do it chemically.
BTW - A Stanley #75 plane is almost useless for planing, but it's
perfect for getting the paint out of mouldings and rebates.
I'd sure investigate the paint-stripping first if the windows are in
good shape otherwise--for one thing, they (I assume) are the originals
and there's value in that--at least for many.
If you decide to build/replace, two sources of info I recommend...
1. Delta has a good publication (sorry, I don't have it at hand to give
part no) that has full discussion of "cope and stick" construction...
2. CMT has an instruction sheet w/ their window sash router bit set that
isn't quite as easy to set up/use, but is more attuned to use of router
vis a vis shaper...this one is online...
I have a copy of the book. It is "Getting the Most Out of Your Shaper". It
is a 1954 copyright. It was published by Rockwell Manufacturing Co, Delta
Power Tool Division. I found it with a Google search in the used book
The publication I was referring to may have been a portion of the book
reprinted but it's just a multi-page (4?, 6?, I don't recall) handout on
cope and stick construction specifically of doors and windows that used
to be distributed w/ their shapers...it's in the shop, I'll try to
remember to get the data on it and see if I can find out if Delta still
will supply it...it actually is <quite> good although I don't doubt the
info in the book is also plus more, to boot, undoubtedly.
I've been down that road already. Have you considered sending the
sashes out to a stripping facility? It's not a bad option if you are
doing just a few sashes at a time and you can live with plywood over
the openings for a few days. Sending the old sashes out beats makinge
new ones by a mile. That of course assumes that the sashes are worth
Making new sashes is not too difficult with a very stout router in a
table or a shaper. The cutters are easy to find. Go to
www.oldhouseweb.com and check out their boards and preservation briefs.
It's nice to hear that you aren't just wanting to slap some vinyl
monstrosity up in place of the original window. Old double hungs,
properly weatherstripped and with wooden storms, are quite nice on
those cold Ohio winter nights we are still experiencing.
You might want to get a copy of John Birchard, "Make you own
Handcrafted Doors and Windows", Sterling, 1988 ISBN 0-8069-6544-4.
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
I made mine. Even though I enjoy woodworking, would I do it again? Maybe,
but probably not. Its just something a factory can do so much cheaper and
due to the basic function of windows, its difficult to add any personal
Picture of mine.
Nice stuff Nicholas. However, it looks like your shop is in cave! If I had
your single tenoner, I would not hesitate to make more windows. However, my
next big machine may be a TIG welder or a Multi-Router.
Ah - so many tools - Hmm, what project can I start to justify buying more
Thanks to everybody for the adviice. I have a question, if you send
them out to be stripped do you have to remove the glass?
Also, the windows I want to replace are double hung sash with no
lites. I'd love to know what problems I'm likey to get should I choose
to make my own.
MikeOn Thu, 10 Mar 2005 20:03:05 -0000, "Nicholas"
If the glass is single pane, I'd just remove it unless its antique glass. If
you are going to make your own, make sure you leave extra material for final
fitting, cut the window so it will accommodate dual glazed panels.
"No" lites??? Or you mean just a single pane (that would be one lite)?
RE: potential problems...what material do you want to use? I had a
heckuva time finding 5/4 clear white pine (in fact, gave up) as
apparently Andersen, et al., have a near lock on the market (at least
unless you're nearer areas where it is produced and have access to
larger wholesalers than I have <easy> access to).
One real pita imo, is that it is very difficult to find the stub-spindle
cutter to make the matching cut for the sticking to make a traditional
full-length rail tenon as opposed to the present stub-tenon. Delta was
the only manufacturer of these for small shapers that I was aware of and
they have ceased production (and are out of stock, I've checked). The
only way at present to do this that I'm aware of is w/ the CMT router
set, but it's somewhat more tricky of a set up than the Delta shaper set
was. I've sent a profile to a custom house to see about getting a
custom carbide replacement--when I get the quote back I'll post -- if
there are others interested it might cut setup one-time cost down
How are the windows hung--traditional weights/sash cord or more modern?
Weight and sash cord. The house is a Craftsman style and the windows
are really very plain. No stubs or anything. Almost the same as a rail
and stile kitchen cabinet panel door only with glass instead of a
mikeOn Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:53:47 -0600, Duane Bozarth
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