Greetings,
When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw. I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage. How do you guys do it ?
Thanks, Charlie in Kentucky
Same way you do. I sure wouldn't want to try and grip the blade with anything. Perhaps you could hold it from the pulley on the motor somehow?
I just put a good leather glove on my left hand.
Regards
I get my wife to do it, she's real good with pickle jars too. ;-)
KY in London, KY
Two wrenches: one on the arbor nut, and one on the flats of the arbor.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
Ditto. Also, vise grip pliers on the blade instead of the block of wood.
Happy New Year Joe
Charlie,
Check to see if there isn't 2 flat spots ground on the arbor flange that the blade rests against when you install it. If it's a Jet or Delta, you should find them. Take an open end wrench (of required size) and use that to hold the shaft while you use the blade wrench to tighten/loose the arbor nut.
I simply ordered a blade wrench ($6) from Jet when I got my cabinet saw. You may need to grind a standard open-end wrench to thin it down so it fits.
If it doesn't have the flat spots, make or purchase a blade lock
For every saw I've owned, I've never had a problem crafting a piece of hard wood that wedges between the blade teeth and the table top. You gotta use the same piece of wood every time! Looking for a scrap in the bin will drive you batty.
Bob
I grab the blade with a heavy leather glove on my left hand and tighten with my right. I do the job from the out feed side..
Vicegrip?!!
waitress..check please...
lmao
Myx
I've found that when you purchase a TS there are usually a couple wrenches provided with them. One to remove the blade nut and one to hold the arbor, usually about and eighth of an inch thick. Toss the one for the blade nut, and keep the arbor wrench. Now in your case look around where you would have put those cheap looking wrenches you got with all your powertools, one of them is probably the arbor wrench.
Dave
Mayday!!! more like it:)
One wrench, one size XL, mom-issued mitt (on a 3 HP Jet). Non-coated blades btw.
Its the Blade-Loc. Ive got one and its a great, inexpensive item for the tablesaw.
Dean Bielanowski Editor, Online Tool Reviews
- Workshop Essentials Under $30
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Piece of scrap wood wedged between the blade and table top. Be sure to hold the arbor nut wrench in a position that if it slips you don't rake your hand across all of the blade teeth. I torque the nut down "pretty tight", but I know that's not a very accurate value for you to compare with.
I've got a Robland X31 combination machine and the arbor shaft has a hole in it, the saw table has a hole in it that lines up with the hole in the shaft. Even comes with a a rounded end steel rod to fit the hole in the arbor. Why American manufacturers don't include the standard features of Euro machines is a real mystery. An easily removable and reinstallable riving knife should be standard equiptment. (I'll skip the American auto manufacturers rant except to say we'd still have carburators distributors, generators steering wheels that'd go through you on impact tons of chrome ladder frames leaf springs all drum brakes and rain gutters BUT WE'D HAVE FINS, BIG SWOOPY FINS AND BIGGGG V-8s!)
Wonder what Veritas could come up with if they designed a table saw - or a car?
charlie belden
Hey, I have an 'American Saw' and it has a two wrench blade tightening system. But sadly, no stock riving knife - I added one, however.
As for US cars, how about Ed Cole's baby, the Corvair (65 & later)?
4 wheel, 4 link independent suspension with coil springs, flat horizontally opposed 6 cylinder turbocharged engine - an alternator, really stiff unibody, split steering shaft, little to no chrome, and no fins.People didn't want it - Ralph Nader killed it, even though by the time his book was published, they had redesigned it to eliminate the VW type swing-arm suspension. While easy to blame the manufacturers, they produce what is demanded of them - and what sells.
This explains all the wretched SUV's roaming the landscape of the USA that are equipped with... hmmm....
Huge bulbous bodies, big V-8s, lots of chrome, rain gutters, huge pompous grills, ladder frames, distributors (although electronic instead of points), leaf springs, and high centers of gravity. That is what the morons want.
Makes the mind reel...
Greg G.
Ouch... I think not...
Greg G.
benchdog makes that one
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