How Tight

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Greetings,
When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw. I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage. How do you guys do it ?
Thanks, Charlie in Kentucky
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In rec.woodworking snipped-for-privacy@logantele.com (Charlie Campney) wrote:

Same way you do. I sure wouldn't want to try and grip the blade with anything. Perhaps you could hold it from the pulley on the motor somehow?
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I just put a good leather glove on my left hand.
Regards
(Charlie Campney) wrote:

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I get my wife to do it, she's real good with pickle jars too. ;-)
KY in London, KY
--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"Charlie Campney" < snipped-for-privacy@logantele.com> wrote in message
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(Charlie Campney) wrote:

Two wrenches: one on the arbor nut, and one on the flats of the arbor.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
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Ditto. Also, vise grip pliers on the blade instead of the block of wood.
Happy New Year Joe
--


Be sure to check-out our webpages...
http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/kb8qlrjoe/index.html
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<snip>

Vicegrip?!!
waitress..check please...
lmao
Myx
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Mayday!!! more like it:)

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kb8qlr said:

Ouch... I think not...
Greg G.
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That's not even a decent joke. Some newbie might think you were serious, and actually try that.
Idiot.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
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Charlie,
Check to see if there isn't 2 flat spots ground on the arbor flange that the blade rests against when you install it. If it's a Jet or Delta, you should find them. Take an open end wrench (of required size) and use that to hold the shaft while you use the blade wrench to tighten/loose the arbor nut.
I simply ordered a blade wrench ($6) from Jet when I got my cabinet saw. You may need to grind a standard open-end wrench to thin it down so it fits.
If it doesn't have the flat spots, make or purchase a blade lock http://www.newwoodworker.com/bladeloc.html
Bob S.

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For every saw I've owned, I've never had a problem crafting a piece of hard wood that wedges between the blade teeth and the table top. You gotta use the same piece of wood every time! Looking for a scrap in the bin will drive you batty.
Bob

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I grab the blade with a heavy leather glove on my left hand and tighten with my right. I do the job from the out feed side..
--
Mike G.
snipped-for-privacy@heirloom-woods.net
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I've found that when you purchase a TS there are usually a couple wrenches provided with them. One to remove the blade nut and one to hold the arbor, usually about and eighth of an inch thick. Toss the one for the blade nut, and keep the arbor wrench. Now in your case look around where you would have put those cheap looking wrenches you got with all your powertools, one of them is probably the arbor wrench.
Dave
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One wrench, one size XL, mom-issued mitt (on a 3 HP Jet). Non-coated blades btw.
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I use the orange blade gripper thing (can't remember what it's called) from the borg. Works good once you get the hang of it.

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from
Its the Blade-Loc. Ive got one and its a great, inexpensive item for the tablesaw. http://tinyurl.com/yqw4h
-- Regards,
Dean Bielanowski Editor, Online Tool Reviews http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com ------------------------------------------------------------ Latest 5 Reviews: - Workshop Essentials Under $30 - Festool PS 300 Jigsaws - Delta Universal Tenoning Jig - Ryobi Reciprocating Saw - Infinity Router Bits ------------------------------------------------------------
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benchdog makes that one
--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"Steven Bliss" < snipped-for-privacy@satx.rr.com> wrote in message
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Piece of scrap wood wedged between the blade and table top. Be sure to hold the arbor nut wrench in a position that if it slips you don't rake your hand across all of the blade teeth. I torque the nut down "pretty tight", but I know that's not a very accurate value for you to compare with.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"Charlie Campney" < snipped-for-privacy@logantele.com> wrote in message
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Charlie Campney wrote:

I've got a Robland X31 combination machine and the arbor shaft has a hole in it, the saw table has a hole in it that lines up with the hole in the shaft. Even comes with a a rounded end steel rod to fit the hole in the arbor. Why American manufacturers don't include the standard features of Euro machines is a real mystery. An easily removable and reinstallable riving knife should be standard equiptment. (I'll skip the American auto manufacturers rant except to say we'd still have carburators distributors, generators steering wheels that'd go through you on impact tons of chrome ladder frames leaf springs all drum brakes and rain gutters BUT WE'D HAVE FINS, BIG SWOOPY FINS AND BIGGGG V-8s!)
Wonder what Veritas could come up with if they designed a table saw - or a car?
charlie belden
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