I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
bandsaw. I think I have a handle on the good and bad points of that scheme.
(but if you have any profound insights...)
My 14" is 1hp and certainly wouldn't rip fast enough to replace a TS. The
bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it will rip
4/4 oak satisfactorily? (sure, I cut 8/4 ocassionally, but not often enough
to worry about it.) I would prefer to keep it on a 20a circuit, but can
certainly put in a 30a circuit if 3hp won't cut it.
> I am contemplating replacing my 14" bandsaw and tablesaw with a bigger
> bigger ones are 2hp up to 5hp. How big do I have to go before it
> 4/4 oak satisfactorily?
Unless you have 3 phase power, 2HP is about the upper limit.
> Geez no; you can get 3hp on a 20a circuit and 5hp on a 30a circuit.
> One horse is roughly 1200w.
Don't give up your day job to go into the electrical business.
At least, not just yet<G>.
Those numbers aren't all that bad. The amerages are reasonable numbers
for a 240V motor, as long as the breakers protecting the wires are sized
for the startup load.
The wattage number is a bit wonky, though still in the ballpark.
1HP is 746 watts, plus power factor correction, plus efficiency correction.
1200w is 10a at 120v. A 1hp motor is typically 10a, 1.5hp 15a, ans 2hp 20a.
Then, going into 240v, a 3hp is 15a. The wattage number isn't the least bit
wonky. Now some motors are more or less efficient; my 2hp TS motor only
draws 17a, but it was 50% more expensive than the same manufacturer's 20a
I don't think a bandsaw is a good substitute for a tablesaw no matter
what the capacity. Personally, I'd upgrade the tablesaw first.
"If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a
nail." - Abraham Maslow
Too damn right it works. I don't own a table saw, I don't want one and I have
never needed one. I rather have a couple of narrow assembly tables take up the
space. And I worry a lot less about counting my fingers.
Between the BS and the Radial Arm I can achieve anything I want to; 8'x4'
sheets I cut with the skilly in any event.
Just goes to show how Your Mileage May Vary <grin>
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
Cross cutting, roughing out lap joints, making tenons. Very very rarely I might
rip a weathergroove or do something like that. Mitres are a little tricky cause
the forces on the blade tends to deflect the angle on the arm, but then I
expect something similar to happen on tablesaws.
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
Like Peter, I don't own a table saw. I just have a 14" bandsaw.
My question is this: How significantly does the motor size impact
cutting speed? My saw is 1 HP and I don't feel like I am bogging it
down, especially with 4/4 material. I have certainly never even come
close to stalling it, even when resawing.
The blade seems to be a much bigger factor. Carbon steel blades dull
very quickly and dull blades cut slowly. I noticed a huge improvement
when I moved to bi-metal blades.
Well, yeah, but have you _priced_ a 24" Powermatic? ;-) That's one serious
The choice of tools in your shop is up to you, and your checkbook, and
those who also have some claim on your checkbook. I've come to the
conclusion that, for now, I'll find a way to do without a big bandsaw. I
miss it, though.
Good luck on the gloat finding.
What kind of blade does the HS have and what kind do you have
(material, width, tooth pattern and tpi)? I still think that the blade
may be the main difference. If the blades wanders back and forth as
you cut, then it is dull. You can watch that happen as you push the
wood through the blade.
Also, I have found that if you have some kind of misalignment in the
board, fence, or table that will cause the board to bind the blade,
that it will be significantly harder to push. I have definitely
experienced that when resawing, but I don't think I have ever
experienced that with 4/4 stock.
Well, guides are more important than teeth in controlling wander, unless
someone's dinged the right-set side. It's overall stiffness that counts
here, as elsewhere. The tension, thickness of the blade, the width and the
guides all go toward making it a saw rather than a floppy piece of metal
being dragged through the board.
Within limits, as we know, slowing the feed will allow rotational inertia
from a 1/2 horse to cut 6" deep. Did it for years on the old Sears saw.
Took a while, though. Wet wood for turning stock could be a real nightmare,
but it's no pleasure on the current Delta and one horse, either.
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