How much varnish is necessary?

I am using Minwax wipe-on poly on a cherry cabinet. The are a lot of little cubbies that are a bear to get into. They will not get any wear and will always be in shadow.
Can I get by with a single coat in the deep recesses? If not, maybe I will have to pay my 10 year old to do them, cause my hand really doesn't fit.
For next time, should I have varnished them all before assembly? (I relied on friction and "precision" stop dados, no glue.)
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Could you make an applicator pad stapled to a stick to reach into the cubbies? If you're like me you have a plethor of hardwood "paint sticks" which are ideal for this purpose. :-)
I would go for at least 2 applications. The first pass soaks into the wood, only on the second pass do you get any build. I would expect the sheen to change significantly between coats one and two, but less so after that.
Thinning may help you get into the corners some.
-Steve

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The rule of thumb is to apply exactly the same number to both sides, to prevent wood movement. I'm not necessarily recommending this--the piece may be solid enough to resist movement on its own. YMMV, void where prohibited, etc.

I'm in the middle of building a stereo cabinet, and in this case (har!) it will be impossible to get behind the drawers after assembly. I plan to finish before assembly, with maybe just one last coat after assembly.
Bob
Bob
Bob
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Bob Schmall wrote:

I did an experiment on a set of kitchen cabinets, the complicated one was finished before assembly, the easy one I finished after assembly.
If I can at all avoid it I will never again finish anything with a hard coat after assembly.
Well, then again, there are always exceptions. I don't foresee them at this time.
--
Mark

N.E. Ohio
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i agree. i always try and bring the work to me whenever possible instead of bringing me (and my sore back) to the wood.
randy
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