saw a video where the guy used his sandpaper once and tossed it
i made a box just to hold the stuff i have used
i like used for lots of situations
if i have some rough pieces that i just want to give a quick sanding i reach for the used
have also found i can use a new 80 followed by a used 80 and i need less work at 120 with overall fewer scratches from the 80
Electric Comet wrote in news:neruqn$op7$2 @dont-email.me:
Use it until you feel it isn't working effectively any longer than then change to new paper. Be more aggressive about changing paper, as most people tend to use the paper too long. Just because dust is still coming off the workpiece, doesn't mean your sandpaper is still good.
Puckdropper
I'm with Puckdropper
I keep it in a shoe box so it is as convenient as loose change. Sometimes I write the grit# on the back. There are quite a few other items in the shoe box too... I think the value of organization is underestimated--I'm working on that... This shoe box is one of my successes... ; )
Electric Comet wrote in news:neruqn$op7$2 @dont-email.me:
This is one of those "it depends" situations.
You want to change paper when it no longer cuts well. Generally this happens sooner on the coarser grits; if you're using 1600 grit paper to polish metal it will last a long time.
Sometimes worn sandpaper gives you better control when you don't want to sand too aggressively. I used to keep used belt-sander belts to use when sanding on the lathe, because they were easier to hold than paper. (the lathe, unfortunately, has seen no use in lo these many years).
Beware of "polishing" rather than smoothing the surface, which happens if the paper is too worn.
John
i made a square crate from a bunch of thin scraps i had this way the dust falls thru
like the idea of writing the grit on the back
When my family was involved in Soap Box Derby, we did a lot of fiberglass and bondo work. I used to do lot of building with a guy who was a master at body work.
He hung onto sandpaper for a long time. When his 100 no longer worked as
100, it became his 150, then his 220, etc. Since we often raced "in primer" things didn't need to be perfect until just before the final paint job. That's when the new sandpaper came out and he got really meticulous.Definition:
"In primer" meant we were still modifying the cars throughout the season as we worked our way towards the big end-of-season races. Any new fiberglass or bondo would get covered with primer before the next race. Sometimes we'd prime a section with a slightly different color primer even if we'd done nothing to the body since the last race. It kept the competition guessing. When you win a lot, people watch your every move. We liked to keep them off guard. ;-)
makes sense to use until it has nothing left on it
i have some of those sticks of buffing compound i break out when i need the mirror finish but that is only for bowls or spindles
Electric Comet wrote in news:nev271$q1d$2 @dont-email.me:
Not really. To cut the grains of sand have to have sharp edges. A worn piece of sandpaper doesn't have finer grits than it started with, it just has dull, rounded over sand.
Now fiberglass and bondo are fairly soft and uniform, so rounded over sandpaper may have worked after a fashion, but in general it doesn't make sense to keep using paper after it stops cutting easily.
John
After spending $500 for wood for a project and 80 hours of time building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.
Actually not. Sand paper that is worn out and and cutting slower like a higher number grit does not cut as fast a new higher grit paper.
If the paper does not feel sharp you are pretty much wasting time. And yes even 220 grit paper feels sharp when it is not worn out.
Exactly
Trying to eek out more life from "done" sand paper costs you more in time.
But contrary, a single sheet of that Festool Granat 120 grit paper will last me a couple of projects. I have never seen anything last as long as that stuff. Dried glue does not phase it.
As I've mentioned before, its paper backing isn't so great, though. I had a lot of problems with it tearing, when sanding to the edge.
A couple of pieces of scotch tape would most-likely make a big difference.
Interesting. How so?
Put a couple of pieces on the back, and try to tear it. Your mileage may vary with your tape...
Better is 2" packing tape if you have it.
Interesting idea but what to the hooks hook into?
He is yanking your chain. ;~)
Get it in a heavier weight paper?
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