I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
Thanks Craig Orput Cave Creek, AZ
There are a couple of ways. If you think you will be building another or using that design in the future, trace it onto a piece of masonite of 1/4" plywood. Then cut the template and trace it onto the finished wood.
If you don't need a template, just trace it onto the wood using carbon paper. (remember that stuff?) You may have to lay a couple of sheets side by side to get the length you need. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net
You could do it that way.
Or, you could put a piece of carbon paper between the pattern and the wood and trace the pattern.
yes- all the above. Often, I'll just tape the paper down to the wood. If it is an intricate pattern, I'll use 3M "77" I think it is called, a high class contact cement. If I will have to make more than one of the same profile, I'll cut one on the scroll saw using 1/4 inch plywood, or maybe masonite. Than, I mark from that. If you want some sort of accuracy, and a nice surface finish, use that hunk of 1/4 inch plywood along with a flush trim router bit.
If you can not print out full size off your computer, print out small than use the old system of grids. Draw a series of lines on the pattern, than a larger series on lines on your workpeice.
What a crummy explanation that was. email me if you need further enlightenment. Though I bet you will have 10 other replies by morning.
-Dan
Cut the pattern out - the spray it - put it on the work and cut it right thru the paper.
"Rob V" wrote in news:LXGpb.52617$v82.2749293 @twister.southeast.rr.com:
I have used rubber cement to accomplish the same thing.
r
Or use a pantograph.
Mike
Carbon paper under the pattern.
Note that this will mirror-reverse the pattern. For symmetrical patterns, this obviously isn't a problem, but if the pattern is asymmetrical, you'll want to invert it with your graphics program before you print it.
The same method works if you have an ink-jet printer, too -- just photocopy the printed pattern before ironing.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
Many ways. I have carbon paper to trace patterns. A sewing pattern wheel works. Or apply rubber cement (Elmers makes a good one) to the pattern and stick it to the wood.
If you can't find carbon paper in this day and age, simply rub a soft pencil over the *back* of the paper where the lines are, tape the pattern in place and trace over the lines with a ballpoint pen.
-- Ernie
I don't remember where to credit this idea, but a used plain-paper fax machine cartridge (the type that has 2 rolls of what looks like carbon paper) is a good source for long long lengths of carbon paper.
black and white transfer paper is available at most craft stores (Michaels or AC Mooore). It can also be found on web sites with scroollsaw patterns and whilygigs(sp?) and "yard art"
BRuce
Ernie Jurick wrote:
Or simply iron it on to the back side of the board.
Go to a sewing shop. Tracing paper. Sold by the yard.
"JGS" wrote
: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay the : page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of the : print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.
JGS rightly expresses some doubt.
It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to make a laser printer do this?
Jeff G
-- Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK Email address is username@ISP username is amgron ISP is clara.co.uk Website
I also use 3m spray adhesive and glue the pattern right to the stock. But for really intricate work, I import the pattern into our cam software at work. Then I cut an exact template out of .09 thick steel on our waterjet. I roughly saw the shape out of the stock, then using double stick tape I tape the steel template to my stock. Using a flush cutting router bit, I get exact copies everytime.
Earlier in this thread, I suggested that those who don't have a laser printer could photocopy the output from an inkjet printer, and transfer the photocopied image to the wood. That suggestion was not mere idle speculation; I've actually done that twice, and it works fine. Since laser printers and dry-toner photocopiers use basically the same process for imprinting images on paper, there is no reason to suppose that it would not work for a laser printer. Indeed, I applied the same reasoning in reverse when I assumed that, if it would work with a laser printer (as had been posted here a couple years ago), then it would surely work with a dry-toner copier. And it does.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
And the best part of the whole thing is that you get to buy another "tool" (Iron) for the workshop!
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