I was setting my blades aside in a stack to be shipped to an outside
source to be sharpened, when I noticed how dirty the baldes were. I
had purchased a blade cleaner kit from Rockler and thought what better
time to test the product. WOW, What a difference!!!! My blades did
not need to be sharpened, they needed to be cleaned of resin and dark
pitch. The kit has a plastice wash basin, the cleaner, and a wire
I like the commercial blade cleaner better than oven cleaner for two
reasons, I had an ol' sharpening service man tell me that oven cleaner
attacks the bonding agent that they use to glue the carbide onto the
saw blank, plus the oven cleaner's has strong fumes.
When I used Rockler's blade cleaner, I let the blades soak over night.
Then I used the wire brush and it simply removed all the pitch. I
then rinsed with hot water, dried the blades and sprayed with Top Cote
to retard the rust.
The kit worked very well for me and I was very pleased with this
method. There are several others as well.
Mike from American Sycamore
One thing I noticed about the Rockler kit was the brush started coming
apart. I lost about 12 or more bristles when cleaning the gullets. Then
again its not a huge complaint, brass brushes are cheap and I already
had a plastic handled one that I know won't come apart...
Other than that the kit worked okay.
The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
You know, the first time I cleaned my blades I used oven cleaner and
it worked great, but what a mess. I bought an old drill press and
used simple green to clean it up -- did a great job. Since then I've
used simple green for my router bits and my saw blades. I just squirt
it on a toothbrush and scrub away at the teeth/blades, and the
resin/gunk comes right off. It's great and pretty non-toxic from what
I understand as well.
I've been using the CMT orange stuff but before used Simple Green. I don't
like using oven cleaners because they are caustic to me. The CMT and Simple
Green both are skin friendly. I have enough trouble just not cutting my self
on the blade, hahahaha.
409 and a brass brush or the Green stuff and a brass brush...
Let it set for 10-30 min, depending on how bad it is, use the brush to clean
the gullets, dry then wax or spray on your favorite rust preventative.
Let the blade soak for five minutes. The crud will wipe right off. Rinse the
blade clean, and dry it.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
I use Simple Green and a really stiff nylon brush. For those hard to
remove deposits I will sometimes carefully use a brass brush. I put
the blade in an oil drain pan that fits the blade perfectly, and the
high sides catch the crap that brushing slings everywhere. Spray the
blade down, and soak for 10-15 minutes - then brush.
Woodworkers have used oven cleaner for a long time but blade
manufacturers are warning against it saying it can attack the brazing
that holds carbide teeth in place. Some say it can affect the carbide
I have a story about lceaning blades, including one of these warnings
at the link below.
I think the site is mainly advertising the blade cleaner.
As for being extremely careful with blades and worrying
about the great strain they are under, I don't buy it. Sure
you want to be careful and not ruin the polish, and most of
us are pretty careful. But, a scratch on the blade isn't
going to do much unless you are running it way faster than
the recommended maximum and/or it's just a piece of crap. I
know my 10" blades run at about 3,000 rpm, way lower than
the blade maximums. I have no fear of using a metal tool or
a steel wire brush to clean a blade. How do you think they
got that brushed finish on some blades?
When folks like Frued say there are substances you should not use on a
blade, I think that is worthy of putting in a story, and listening to.
There are too many alternatives available to go ahead and use caustic
I do wish I was making all this money some seem so sure I am though!
It's been many years and even more threads since Simple Green or
similar cleaners was recommended by many to clean blades. If
non-caustics do the job, why would anyone who's read this same thread
many times continue to use lye/oven cleaner?? Do you have a stockpile
of oven cleaner? Never wanted to try something else? Disagree and
think lye works better? Inquiring minds want to know.
Some of us are just stick in the mud types. I havent't
tried Simple Green on saw blades yet. When I do and if it
works well, I will continue to use it. Occassionally you
get burned stuff, does Simple Green clean work as well on it
as lye does?
Cape Cod Bob wrote:
I ALWAYS use green chemicals first, for my own health. Sometimes the
stronger stuff is necessary. I've cleaned blades with oven cleaner,
simple green, and citrus cleaners. If someone has a can of oven
cleaner handy, I don't think they really need to run out and buy
something else to clean a blade.
Only on real tough stuff. "Better" is a bad descriptor, "faster" is
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