How do you clean a cloth backed strip of sand paper?

[Leon]

I have a 22/44 drum sander and I typically use a rubber stick for cleaning sandpaper but,,,, some times it does not get it all and leaves the smooth paint-like build up. I was sanding Bocote today and that stuff is extremely oily. My belt loaded up and I was able to remove 80% of the build up but the rest will not come off. I have heard of soaking the paper in thinner, has any one done this? Yeah I know, put a new piece on but this is 180 grit and it was working fine until I ran the Bocote through and IIRC these strips are about $8 each.

Has any one bought the longer rolls and cut the ends themselves?

[bridgerfafc]

as soon as the paper starts to load up- before it gets glazed on- change out the strip. collect the dirty ones and soak them for 15 minutes in hot water with a little washing soda. before they dry scrub them down with a stiff bristle brush.

making your own is good practice and commonly done.

[SonomaProducts.com]

[Ferd Farkel]

[mac davis]

I've been working with bocote lately and had the same problem on my 1" belt sander, disk sander and 2" H&L on the lathe.. Found out accidentally, buy forgetting to clean the paper, that sanding a dryer wood takes most of the oily stuff off and then the crepe block/stick works fine.. I keep some pine scraps handy now..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Leon]

Ok, thanks, I'll keep that in mind as it is probably too late now. Unfortunately this happened on 1 board and I had probably made several hundred passes with maple, and a few of mesquite, and zircote. Fortunately I ran the bocote last.

[Leon]

I'll keep that in mind also, thanks.

[Leon]

Yeah, I don't think so. ;~) That's a bit more expensive that replacing the paper.

[dadiOH]

Paint thinner, no...lacquer thinner, yes. I just stick a rolled up strip in a small coffee can of lacquer thinner which dissolves the resins/oils that causes the glazing. When you take it out the sawdust will still be on the strip but they'll come off easily with a cleaning stick. ______________

Lord, YES!! You save a bunch buying 50 yard rolls and it just takes a moment to cut a new wrap when you need it...just lay the old one on the roll and scratch the outline of the ends, then cut.

[George]

The long strips work fine, and with the Performax they even give you the measurements and angles to use. I get mine from Klingspor. Measurements is why you want to avoid water-based soaking if possible. It will change the dimensions, where non-polar solvents like mineral spirits generally won't. Keep a brass-bristle brush on hand to give a bit of extra oomph to cleaning the burned-in areas after you soften them. You might, if that's not working, try spot-treating with a saturated solution of water-based surfactant like TSP or NaMetasilicate to develop slime to remove with the brush. Avoids most of the problems with cloth backing because the resin that holds the grit will keep it from getting into the cloth if you don't soak, but work from the front.

[Leon]

Thank you sir, I'll try it.

Where do you get your longer paper rolls, any place in particular?

[Leon]

Thank you George.

[dadiOH]

I get mine here. Best prices I've found, service is fine. Not paper though, cloth backed.

Watch the wrap...

[Leon]

Wow, they are cheap. Fr about 50% more money I can get 500% more paper if I cut it myself.

[BobS]

Here's the protocol I use for cleaning

1. Gummy stick
2. PVC pipe
3. Solvent (mineral spirits)

No one has mention using PVC pipe yet so I'll explain. I have the 16/32 Performax and when the paper gets loaded with sap - only a good soaking seems to work. But for just about everything else, and when the gummy stick isn't enough, I use a 1-1/2 or 2" diameter section of PVC pipe. You press the round end of the pipe into the paper (lightly) and move it back and fourth across the drum. If you get to heavy on the pressure, you'll start melting the PVC.

It's stiffer than the gummy sticks and works pretty well too. I've not found any single method of cleaning that works for everything.

As for buying long rolls and cutting the strips - hell yes, it's the only way to go.....;-) Good heavy weight papers are the way to save money. The paper will last a lot longer if you take light passes and keep it clean. Once you get sap on it, clean it off with some mineral spirits. Throw a cloth under the drum, get an old toothbrush or other nylon brush and dab on some mineral spirits to clean it off. If that doesn't do it, then remove the roll and soak it in mineral spirits.

Bob S.

[Leon]

Thanks Bob I'll keep that in mind also. I just so happen to have some PVC pipe on hand. I'll try that first.

[Tristie]

Buy a package of the ornage or yellow plastic tree felling (chainsaw use, usually made and marketed by Oregon) wedges that are sold two per pack in big box stores like Lowes etc. They are much better at cleaning out junk from abrasive belts than a rubber stick can dream of. Cheaper and make less mess and last a long time too. They remove paint, residue from woods, metals etc very easy and more efficieintly than a rubber based device.

[Leon]

I have been using the rubber sticks 20+ yars and for the most part they do what I need them to do. They do not do well when the paper gets heavily coated however and I'll keep the wedges in mind. Thank you.