How do I cut the ends on these fence rails?

I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project. I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure

4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons. The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face

- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of this picture:

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my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts. I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw. Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't. Wit's end here!

Cheers

Reply to
opalko
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> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've

Taper cut on a band saw.

Reply to
Leon

Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(

Reply to
opalko

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces. And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6" or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is more challenging!

Reply to
opalko

" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com:

Temporarily nail a plank to the bottom to serve as a reference. Then cut them on a bandsaw with the plank resting flat on the table. It may be easier to cut both ends fresh using the plan than to try to nail a plank square with an existing end.

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know :)

Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the table and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a hatchet.

Reply to
dadiOH

Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the rail. Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well unless you have a special ripping chain. Cutting parallel (or mostly so, except for the bevel angle) does work. You'll find that it may load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just have to clear them out frequently.

Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.

John Martin

Reply to
John Martin

" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:

Perhaps a jig made of two pieces of wood with parallel faces attached at the appropriate angle to another piece that holds your wood in place. The saw could then reference off the parallel faces of the jig and give your tapers. Turn the wood over to finish the joint.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Have you tried to rent a portable band saw?

I've seen them with cutting depths from 4 3/4 to 6".

Reply to
Swingman

about trimming ends of a rail to fit mortises...

Support the work on sawhorses, hold the first end vertical and then mark off (with chalk or crayon) the second end using a level. Chop to the mark.

A hatchet is one tool, the oldtimers might have had an adze that would do the job a tad easier... Roy Underhill did some adze-and-axe shows (The Woodwright's Shop) and heavy timbers sure looked like fun!

Reply to
whit3rd

Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.

Reply to
opalko

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> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to?

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I'd layout a chalk line for the taper, then grab my 9" right angle sander/grinder equipped with a 16 grit disk and have at it.

Works on fiberglass, wooden fence rails are a piece of cake.

Couple of minutes on each end and it's time for a beer.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Sounds like a perfect job for a reciprocating saw / saws-all / demolishion saw

Check them out at HD or Lowes or where ever

Matt

Reply to
Matt

Flat Draw Knife. They cut and split faster than you think. Could pre-shape and finalize.

Mart> I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.

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Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:15:48 -0700 (PDT), the infamous " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" scrawled the following:

Neanderthals everywhere are looking at each other wondering why you haven't sat down at your shave horse with a drawknife and hacked those things out in minutes.

Normites are wondering why your bandsaw is going unused.

DO I make myself clear, soldier? Have at it!

P.S: I've seen machetes wielded well for this task, too.

-- Adults are obsolete children. --Dr. Seuss (Theodore Geisel, 1904-1991)

--

Reply to
Larry Jaques

...chainsaws are *very* adaptable devices, when you finish your long cuts you can modify/touch-up using the saw perpendicular to the cut you're working on and lightly (heh) letting the blade take off excess material with little risk...

cg

Reply to
Chasgroh

The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces. And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6" or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is more challenging.

Rough it with an axe, finish with a power hand plane. Use a level to get both ends in the same plane.

Reply to
CW

The alternative might be a Log Wizard...

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is one on Craig's List
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which is how I found out about them today!

John

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:36:19 -0700, the infamous Chasgroh scrawled the following:

You can also drill holes in the bar and stick long handles on 'em to help guide the tip for more precise carving. Be sure to use a guard (large tsuba) to keep your hand away from the blade if you do that.

-- If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do. -- Samuel Butler

Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:42:42 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett" scrawled the following:

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>>> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to?

I didn't know that fences drank. Interesting.

Well, if we're getting (Ar Ar Ar) POWERful here, I'd grab my 4-1/4" grinder with the Lancelot blade on it and carve 'em out with the little chainsaw it uses.

-- If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do. -- Samuel Butler

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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