I have a 4x4 x 6' post. I would like the center to be cut at 22 deg angle (I think) all the way around, to give it circular look. The tops and bottoms should remain square. (maybe with the corners beveled off), separated with opposing 45 deg bevels.
I have a table saw, router table and hand held router and various other common hand tools.
Is this possible without making it in three sections? I hope this makes sense!
Thanks.
(rough sketch posted in abpw)
Use a router with a 45 degree chamfer bit.
The fastest an easier way is to take it to a shop that has a large lath and have them do it. But it can be done with any of those tools with a little enginuity, time and patiance. OR using the hand held router:
1) start by doing a direct and full layout all around on the wood post. 2) Find and mark the centers of the ends of the wood 3) drill the center of each end, to fit a large bolt, at least 4in long, in it, 4) make two braces out of 2x4's, one for each end, drill a hole 1.5 in down from the end of the 2x4slightly larger then the bolt diameter. 5) affix the 2x4's to the ends of the post with bolts. 6) brace the 2x4's to two sawhorses or other stable base. 7) use a wedge of wood between the post end and the 2x4 to hold the post from rotating. 8) once secured, select your router bit, I would use a carbide cove. 9) set your depth of cut 10) then go slow and cut the pattern on one side. 11) turn the piece once all cuts are made on one side and then start over.if your hand routing is not steady you can hand pieces of wood as guides and then just move the guides as you go along.
Roger
I considered that, and maybe I am missing something, but I don't think the width of the chamfer would be equal to the sides? (unless I had a really large bit)
This is the shape I am looking for (a decagon):
Cut the post into three sections, do the middle section on the table saw with the blade tilted to 22.5 degrees, then glue the three sections back together (maybe using a 1" dowel as a tenon).
Lee
J.
Locutus wrote:
Lee, that's what I was thinking as well, was hoping I was missing something obvious that would allow me to keep the post in tact. :)
Now that I see the picture I finally understand.
Make a cradle to hold the post on its side and do it with the router table with a long fluted endmill (spiral) type cutter. You might want to steup some stops at each end for repatability and use the miter slot if you have one on the table and make it a sled. If you use the slot you'll be going perpendicular to the normal travel direction so hopefully your fence an come completly off. Maybe multiple passes knocking off about 1/4" with each pass.
Take 2 pieces 6" X 2" X 6' long. Needs to be 6" (5.6" to be technical) to allow for diagonal measurement of 4X4 Screw end plates to each end allowing approx 6" gap inbetween with 6X2's on edge. Should look like a box 6" high X 6' Long X 10" wide Drill hole in centre of end plates Mark centres in end of post Use coach bolt / large screw through end of box jig into centre of post ends. Now you should have a rigid frame in which the post is mounted and can be rotated. screw a 'stop' across the top at each end at required length of moulded section. Since you have ten sides each side will be at an angle of 36deg to each other. Wedge post into appropriate angle. Now run along top of box jig just using a straight cut router bit of your choice. I would use something around 3/4" which would only require a cpl of runs. if you like you could use a fence to run along the side of the box jig. Depending on the size of your router base and your usage skill level you may also like to attach a larger base plate to your router.
repeat 10 times and a quick sand and your done.
Now that I see the shape you desire I understand better. I originally thought you were going to cut spirals like a barber post. By looking at the picture, I would use the table saw. Rough off the corners of the post and then proceed with previous postings on this topic. Try a few pieces with scrap wood first though.
OK. A three inch long router bit in a 14 foot router table. Everyone has those. No problem.
Leaving the ends square would be a bit of a problem.
Maybe you don't follow. To cut the 22.5 degree flats on a 4x4 he shows in his sketch only requires much less than an inch for depth of cut, do the math. So any cutter that will extend an inch above the router table is gona work. Any good spiral bit is probably 2 1/2" long.
Why you need a 14' table I don't understand. I assumed he wanted just a small section at the center to have the octogon figure. He dis say at the center with the ends still square. An assumption on my part I guess and I could be wrong. In that case I might make a fixture to ride on the post. Too hard to describe but would take me about an hour to build.
Why is it your constant approach to offer snide criticisms and not just offer a solution. You seem to want to show you are smarter, but not actually be helpful. Occasionaly you break out of your own mould and show you have the knowledge to help and use it.
Maybe I am too sensitive.
20 minutes work on a jointer. That is what jointers do, and just may be their raison d'etre.
...forgot to mention that you would be limited to the amount you can drop down the out-feed table... something to keep in mind during lay- out.
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