How attach cabinet face frame to carcass?

How do you best mount a cabinet face frame?
I have already made a carcass and it has raised panels on both sides. I now want to use a face frame to mount 3 doors (previously was just going to edge mount). How should I attach the face frame so that I dont have to drill or mar up the raised panel sides? The side railes are about 2" wide using 3/4" oak.
I was just going to build the face frame as a unit then attach to carcass. Face frame will probably be about 1.5" wide using 3/4" oak. I have a biscuit cutter I could use to biscuit around the edge of the carcass w/matching cuts in back of frame, then glue and clamp. But since there would be constant weight of doors/frame pulling frame away in line with the bisquits, it doesnt seem like the bisquits provide much strength in that orientation and its all glue for strength with no mechanical attachment.
Thanks for any tips.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You're likely to get a number of suggestions, many of them being biscuits, but my preference is a blind nailing kit which with a little practice works extremely well in my opinion.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p2683&cat=1,41182
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If the carcass is solid wood, just glue the face frame on.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 21 Nov 2006 22:11:19 GMT, "Leon"

I agree with Leon. Much of the work I do these days I use only a brad nailer along with glue. I've had people question the practice however, a decent glue joint is stronger that the wood itself. The brads are simply to hold position until the adhesive cures. Also, keep in mind that biscuits have a number of benefits. In this case a bicuit would increase the adhesive surface area.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 06:09:40 -0500, Joe Bemier

Please add me to the chorus. <G>
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Which chorus..? Do you disagree with the glue only method?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 08:38:19 -0500, Joe Bemier

The glue is fine group.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Add my voice to the chorus, too -- and I'll also point out that the carcase doesn't need to be solid wood, either. Even if the carcase is melamine-covered particle board, glue-only still works just fine. Before actually doing this, to test the concept, I glued (Titebond II) a scrap of cherry to the edge of a piece of melamine PCB and allowed the glue to cure for 36 hours. Then I tried to remove the cherry, first with my fingers, then with a hammer. The glue joint held, and the wood broke.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 08:38:19 -0500, Joe Bemier

I agree with you and Leon, as I quoted. Sorry for the confusion!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"wayne86" wrote in message

The "strength" provided by the proper glue without mechanical fastening will be the least of your worries.
Since you are doing it as an afterthought, you will very much appreciate the "alignment" that carefully placed biscuits will provide when mounting a FF on a carcase.
Besides biscuits, there are as many ways to attach a FF as there are to make one ... among them splines, pocket hole screws, dadoes/grooves, dowels, and the time honored, but much maligned these days, finish nail.
And, as Leon says, glued wood to wood should provide sufficient strength, combined with any of these methods, or in many cases, by itself.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Swingman wrote:

no duh
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Biscuits won't add strength but will help alignment of you think it will be a problem. More hassle than worth in my shop.
You can use pocket screws from inside th cabinet into the back of the frame if you have a portable pocket screw setup. I've seen lots of these done with just glue. The shop I am in has two big racks of pipe clamps just for this purpose.
Lots o' guys use finish nails but being a furniture person I just hate to see that but it is done in production of pretty highend kitchens every day.
wayne86 wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi Wayne,
The best way is pocket screws. Very easy and very clean to use. I just finished a book case and the are wonderful. I use the Kreg set up. You can get these at Menards or the specialty shops.
Dan

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The biscuits will do fine. I've used them to install lots of face frames, though usually I will assemble the frame on to the case piece by piece rather than as a unit. If the back of the cabinet hasn't been installed yet, and if the design will hide the holes on the inside, pocket holes & screws might be an option.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
For the two sets of face frames I've made up, I used dowels and dowel centers to mark the locations on the face frames. Then glue was used to hold them on.
BUT if I was doing a whole kitchen I would look at pocket hole attachement as that would allow someday a simple face frame and door upgrade to the kitchen.
If one used dowels or biscuits, I suppose a one side flush cut off saw could be used to severe the face frame from the cabinets.
Alan
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.