Hot rod table saw

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Hi, The motor on my old Craftsman 10" table saw finally burned up a few months ago. My wife and I are building a house and I am constantly needing to rip long lenghts of 2-by material. I'm sure a new blade would have helped, but the saw would always overheat badly and want to stall. I always wanted a new motor, so even though I'm completely broke because of the house, I was almost happy when the old one gave up.
I thought about Harbor Freight, but the ones I used on my air compressor just didn't last. I ended up buying a 230v 3 hp (14amp) Marathon brand air compressor motor from Enco for $162, part number 891-4959. I was surprised by the quality, it seems like a very nice piece for the money. It is, however, very open and therefore needs some kind of a home-made sawdust shield. I wired in a dedicated 20 amp recepticle and bought 35 feet of #8 SJT with large twist-lock plug and used the original power switch.
As the new motor uses a 56H frame, it mounted right up with no problems. At the same time I got a new Freud rip blade. WOW! What a difference. That thing doesn't even slow down. It literally cuts like butter. When you start it, it INSTANTLY comes up to full rpm. It's REALLY amazing. Really worth the money. The long dedicated power cord is great also, something I should have done a long time ago. No more plugging and unplugging. That actually may be the best part.
Anyway, I thought I'd post because there are so many of these old saws out there and I am really, really happy with the results. Now, if I could only afford a good fence system...
-Tony-
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Good luck with that motor. A replacement motor would have had a a service factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC motor into a table saw. Hope it works out.
todd
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Same thought Todd... I'm concerned about a dust fire with an open motor... Keep it clean, Tony... OTOH, I know how good it feels to have a saw and blade that just eats wood like it's a marshmellow puff...
denny
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Not likely, no sparks and most Craftsman machines were not equipped with TEFC motors. Nor was my Rockwell drill press.
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ENCO sells TEFC motors as well. Unfortunately for me, they are twice the price. I tried to make the point that, at the moment, I am seriously short on fundage. With the shield I mentioned, I think it will be fine.
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top-o-the-line contractors saw. I would not worry about it! Greg
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Well, I guess all these companies putting TEFC motors in their saws are just wasting money, eh?
todd
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todd wrote:

The original poster was talking about a contractor's saw. Most of the dust drops to the floor, with some going out the back. Any accumulated dust on the motor is easily blown out, and because it's hanging out the back you can *see* the dust build-up.
In a cabinet saw, the motor is enclosed with all the dust flying around it, and you may forget about it getting dusty because you don't see it all the time. In that environment you'd certainly want a TEFC motor.
Chris
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I also have a Delta contractor's saw with an open moter. I think the actual terminology is "ODP" for "open drip proof" it is not quite as "open" as some other motors I have seen. I have had this saw for 7 years and it was a few years old when I purchased it, so I would say the motor must be at least 10 years old now.
Like a previous poster said, I don't think a TEFC motor is essential in a Contractors saw. Other than putting a shop vac hose up to the motor opening a few times a year, I've never done anything special to it and never had any trouble.
Also, a TEFC is less efficient than an open motor, all other things being equal. I don't know how significant this is, but would point out that Jet uses a TEFC on their contractor saw and there are often complaints about them tripping 20A breakers on 120V circuits. Delta typically uses an open motor at the same 1.5hp and has few complaints in this regard. The reated current draw of the 2 motors is different as well, with the Jet motor requiring more. I don't recall the exact figures but I believe it was on the order of a few amps.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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Not wasting their money, but not run for cover the sky is falling either. Would a TEFC motor be better? Yes. how much better? Damned if I could tell you! It often comes down to the money. Spend $150 for a open motor that may last 1/2 a century, or a TEFC motor, for twice the price, that may never need to be replaced. I know 50 years from now I won't care so I may be inclined to buy an open motor and let my children worry about it after they inherit the saw! My neighbor finally replaced the open motor on his Dad's Craftsman table saw a year or so ago. Same motor that has been hanging on the saw for nearly 50 years. The saw has seen considerable use. His Dad had a woodshop that most of us would have drooled over! Greg
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Perhaps Greg is confused about "open motor". As it is a contractor saw, IIRC the motor hangs out the back "in the open" as it were. I'd be very surprised if Delta ships a non TEFC motor on any tablesaw.
scott
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Go out to a retail web site and download a Delta owner's manual Scott. The picture clearly shows a non-TEFC motor.
--

-Mike-
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Where do you want me to send the pics? It is a open motor! Trust me, I know the difference! Greg
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: factor of at least 1.0 and would have been totally enclosed, which would : have kept out dust. I'd be really reluctant about putting a non-TEFC motor : into a table saw. Hope it works out.
Aren't most Delta motors open? One reason I prefer Jet, whose motors are all TEFC.
    -- Andy Barss
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The ones on contractor saws are. They've been putting them on hundreds of thousands of saws for years so it must not be the problem you perceive.
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An open motor on a table saw is just looking for trouble, and using the original switch that was probably intended for 1 horsepower and 120 volts on the new 3 horse motor also spells disaster. The saw's wiring also needs to be upgraded as well as the power cord. If the switch doesn't short out and electrocute you it will surely burn up very soon, or it may weld itself in the ON position at the exact time that you really need to shut of the saw "right now" because of some saw cutting disaster. One of these stupid mistakes will likely burn down your new house that you have worked so hard to build, electrocute you, or saw your arm off because the saw won't shut off. If you still think you've made a great improvement in your saw, then I can only say that you had better have your insurance paid up.
--
Charley

"Tony Jester" < snipped-for-privacy@nospam.org> wrote in message
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Wow, you have no spirit of adventure at all, do you. You expecting to live forever or something?
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The person who owned my saw before me put a magnetic switch on that was too small for the motor. He "compensated" by using two poles rather than one, figuring the current was divided. Well, it fused closed. There are right way and wrong ways to do things; and you innovate at your own risk.
A new blade for $50 would have saved you from spending $160 on a new motor that is inappropriate for your saw. But go ahead doing things your way. Geez, I hope you are a troll.
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Apparently your sense of humor is broken today Toller. Tony's comment is obviously a tongue in cheek comment.

Ummmm... didn't he state that the original motor bit the dust? That $50 blade won't do much once the magic smoke escapes.
--

-Mike-
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new motor so he let it burn out. Then he bought a crap motor and a new blade.
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