Hook & Loop sandpaper frustration

I have a Bosch variable speed ROSander and love it. Problem is, it's hook & loop and the sandpaper loses its grip and flies off the sander well before it's worn out. I've tried several brands of paper as well as replaced the hook pad on the sander even though I haven't had it that long. Coating the back of the sandpaper with spray adhesive helps for awhile but doesn't solve the problem.

Any suggestions out there? For now, I've removed the hook pad from the sander, smoothed out the remains of the old one underneath, and use self-stick paper. It holds much better than the h&l but I'm still looking for other solutions.

Thanks

Will

Reply to
NorthIdahoWWer
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I've just had mine stolen with a replacement on order.

In retrospect, it was ready for a factory rebuild, so the didn't get much.

Sounds like you have worn out the rubber pad, you may have to replace it.

If you are within 50 miles of a factory service center, even at $3/gal for gasoline, the trip will be worth it IMHO.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I don't know how I would have worn out the rubber pad. The sander's only a few months old with maybe 10 hours on it. The pad seems fine, it's the velcro sheet on it that's the problem.

Reply to
NorthIdahoWWer

It is possible you are putting too much pressure on the sander. I have to watch it with my 2" and 3" H&L or the glue will let go and I have to reach for a new disk.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

SFWIW, I buy nothing but Klingspor discs in lots of 100 pcs.

They work great until I screw up the pad by sanding to close in the corners.

Now that I have the Fein detail sander, it is no longer a problem.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Will

Same symptom as when the hooks on the pad of my PC 333 wore out -- get a new hook pad for your sander and you will be fine. I was convinced they died prematurely since I was using some of the funky 5/8 hole paper when I only needed 5 hole paper -- lots of the hooks were showing through and hitting the wood when I sanded.

Reply to
Sam the Cat

Velcro pads are a consumable item, but after 100 hours (guessing wildly) not

  1. Could you have set down the sander running without paper attached? That could trash the velcro pretty quickly.

The first order of business is to replace the velcro pad. Woodworkers warehouse used to carry them. I f you have a similar tool outlet that carries Bosch, they will probably have them on hand.

-Steve

Reply to
Stephen M

I am confused by your "I've removed the hook pad from the sander, smoothed out the remains of the old one underneath". You put a second pad over the first? That can't be right; maybe I am misunderstanding you.

I have a whole lot more than 10 hours on my PC333s and have never had a problem with several different brands of paper; but then I have never used two hook pads. Assuming Bosch does not make crappy ROSs, and you really aren't using a double hook pad, your pad must be defective. Seems unlikely, but I can't think of another explanation.

Reply to
Toller

On Mon, 3 Oct 2005 21:32:50 -0700, "NorthIdahoWWer" scribbled:

I have one too and love it. When that happened, I replaced the hook pad. Note that Bosch has different hardness pads: extra soft, soft and hard see for a parts diagram.

Maybe you're pressing too hard? Let the sander do the work. The owner's manual says (p.7):

What mystifies me is your statement that you "smoothed out the remains of the old one underneath". Why would there be remains of an old pad underneath the new one?

Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

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Reply to
Luigi Zanasi

I'm with Luigi. One classic mistake people make with ROS's is to press on them, especially as they effectively press on the edge. given the rotation(s). This, and thin-backed sandpaper can result in overheating of the hooks in the hook/loop system.

Press less, and Lew's Klingspor paper, one with a heavier insulating value seem to be good advice.

I understand that you've made a PSA out of it, BTW.

Reply to
George

Reply to
nospambob

I have occasionally had this problem with my ROS. It seems to happen when I don't adequately press the paper onto the pad. Taking an extra second to make sure it is tightly engaged eliminates the problem. Better paper helps too - the Klingspor disks work well for me. Also, coarse paper is much more of a problem than fine, just because it grabs more I assume.

-- "We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

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Reply to
Tim Douglass

What do you consider worn out??

Most Typical Sand Paper is worn out and looses it effectiveness after an accumulated 15 minutes of use. If the paper holds well for 10 minutes of actual use, you may simply be dealing with worn out paper. Although the papers abrasive surface may still look and feel OK, it does not mean that is not worn out. Also, if you sand a lot of contours and or sharp edges the paper will wear out more quickly.

Reply to
Leon

I've noticed this a lot with the drill mounted disks that we use mostly for turned stuff... the Velcro breaks down mostly at the rim/edge of the pad, where the heat/use is highest..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

I totally agree.

I posted a similar problem here on the wreck about a year or so ago. After a few posts which were "sympathetic" to my plight, the high rollers chimed in with...well..some ridicule. They were right.

I have the PC 333 ROS. I thought that it might be the pads or the paper too. In the last analysis, it was me. I was using the paper much too long. I think that if you get 10-15 min out of one sheet, then you are doing well. I was standing there for 30 min and the damn paper flying off in all directions. Blamed everything but me.

Change paper often.

Use the discarded paper for "hand" sanding. There is still a lot of grit left - and much better than the typical sheets you buy. When the offensive sheet flies off, I tear it along a radius so that I know what it is to be used for.

Sorry for the preposition.

Happy sanding...

Lou

Reply to
loutent

Ok, thanks for all the input. There seemed to be some confusion on the pads. I had the sander for just a few weeks, maybe 3 or 4 when I put a new hook pad on. As per the instructions, I ran the original hook pad on sandpaper to remove the hooks, leaving only the plastic "base" since it's permanently adhered to the actual foam pad. The foam part is fine and running it on sandpaper did smooth it up nicely. I then glued the new hook pad on with the glue provided, which was "Goop" brand and sucked, as the hook pad came off in less than 30 minutes of use. So I reglued it using Elmer's polyurethane (like Gorilla glue). That held the hook pad fine. What the problem was, as there seemed to be some confusion in this, was that the paper itself would let go after just a few minutes of use. I've been a woodworker for 20 years so I'm familiar with what worn out sandpaper looks & feels like and there was plenty of use left in the disc. I saw a lot of posts suggesting not pressing too hard on the sander, which I don't. I agree that letting the sander do the work works best. I also understand that the paper can turn loose when doing edges, etc. so I turn the speed down since my model of POS... I mean ROS ;-) is variable speed.

I guess what it boils down to is 1.) Try the Klingspor brand of paper since I haven't seen that one yet; and 2.) Just accept that this is the nature of the beast and go through discs like my ex does husbands. :-)

Anyhoo, thanks again for all the suggestions. Love the wreck.

Will

Reply to
NorthIdahoWWer

Hmmmm. Pretty rigid glue, and one which insulates as it foams and entrains air. More flexible the paper, the less you want rigidity to rack the hooks, and the more heat generated, the more you want to transmit some away to the rubber.

Never used poly glue for sticking velcro, but the 3M 77 spray has resurfaced a few of the smaller disks I use for sanding on the lathe.

Reply to
George

North,

So it seems that you did a "retread" job on your sander. The replacement part that I have seen for both bosch and makita is the whole pad, for which they charge about $20. I would venture to guess that your method is *not* what the manufacturer reccomends. If it works, good for you, I'm sure it's much more economical. If not, try buying the whole part.

-Steve

Reply to
Stephen M

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