High end cabinets - pocket holes or M&T?????

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:> Hi Rich, :> :> When yu say "cabinets" what are you talking about? Kitchen cabinets? :> Or things like dressers and hutches? :> :> To me, if you want a high end cabinet you make it with dovetails. :> :> : "dovetails"?? what the hell are you talking about?
the carcase

: to ask you to post pics of your dovetailed face frames and doors,
Not drawers either. The carcase.
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Mortise and tenon for everything I build but I cut mortises with a horizontal router station I built some years back. It works adequately and more important consistently. I'm not building cabinets in "production" but more generally in onsite custom jobs and this thing can easily be loaded in the trailer and brought to the job I categorize pocket screws as shortcuts but there are times when they must be used. I do wonder about your use of the word production. Are you actually doing continual repetitive cabinet joinery?
EJ
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How about a picture of that machine? It sounds interesting.
Dave

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Dave, Haven't stepped up to the digital photo age yet but this will get you close. Shopnotes issue #68 has the same concept with a few spins on it that are considerably better designed than what I built. Following is a link to the shopnotes back issue store that has a picture as well as the issue has plans. If you look close at the pic in the link you can see angled slides for setting the table height, this is a superior design to mine as I built mine with 2 verticle slots with locknuts which makes setup a little more complicated. Still works great though. http://store.yahoo.com/backissuesstore/sn068.html
EJ
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If the cabinets are tied down (kitchens or baths); I use pocket screws. Inexpensive built ins like book case units will use pocket holes as well. If the item is free standing or built in in the "furniture" class; I use dovetail joints or M&T.
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Alan Bierbaum

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For high end cabinets with face frames, I still use pocket holes unless somebody wants to pay extra for M&T. I use M&T and other classic joints for furniture. For that, I have a Powermatic mortiser.
However, lately I have turned more to doing mortise and tenons with a router. The jigs are simple, the milling is cleaner than seen with the hollow chisel mortiser and I am convinced I have a stronger joint. Also, when using a router, you can do a through M&T without worrying as much about tearout as you go through. You still need a backer board, but even with a backer board, there usually is some tearout with a hollow chisel mortiser.
So for me, since I can do the M&T easily with a router, I would go for the pocket hole machine.
Preston
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On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:25:56 GMT, Richard Holliingsworth

One thing not mentioned in other posts is a design consideration. If you want the look of a tenon joint, pocket holes won't help. Granted, that's rarely an issue in cabinetry, but it might be in yours.
We have one local artisan who finger joints face frames on cabinetry, using dissimilar woods. The pieces are extraordinary, and naturally the cost is considerably more. But these are as much art pieces as cabinetry.
So pretty much it all depends on your particular style, taste and design. If you're looking at buying this equipment, you've been doing this long enough to have a good idea of waht your business is, and where you'd like it to go. Base your decision on that.
Jeff
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Hell these things are just kitchen cabinets nothing special, they have been making the same old thing for the last 50 years just dressing then up here or there or perhaps calling them "european" or the like . just buy a used double doweling machine and you can do the joints in a complete kitchen in a day . mjh
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