Hiding Drawer Lines?

I have a series of 8 drawers in a built-in cabinet. They are full overlay(front extends over opening). I want to make the voids between each drawer front small enough to make them nearly invisible. I realize that the human eye is capable of picking up a 1/32" gap. I've drawn up several cuts such as 2-9 degree bevels, but nothing seems to do the trick. Am I attempting the impossible, or is there something I've overlooked?
I'm using Blum bottom mount slides, self-closing. Planning on using stero cabinet magnetic kick-out latches. Unlimited overlay is passible since they have not been cut to size yet. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Junkyard Jim
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Oh yeah, BTW, I AM anal. This project is part of my magnum opus.
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Hi Jim,
I'm not sure that I understand the problem. If they were inset, that would be another story.
If you have all the boxes built and want (say)1/64 between the fronts, why can't you insert a (say) 1/64 spacer between fronts and go from there?
Back bevel for better clearance.
Lou

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Better reduce that to 1/128" if you want it to be invisable at 10 feet. Smaller if you're closer.
realize

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On 26 Jan 2005 16:18:45 -0800, the inscrutable "Junkyard Jim"

Seasonal humidity (or a shower/bath in the house) will close those tiny gaps if you get them very tight. You don't really want to do that unless your front panels are made of metal or a non-breathing material other than wood.
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Underalls work for some.
--

FF


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    Greetings and Salutations.
On 26 Jan 2005 16:18:45 -0800, "Junkyard Jim"

want is an unbroken surface with knobs (I assume you have handles of SOME sort on the drawers). However, how about dividing the entire surface into a grid, with the drawer intersections falling at the grid lines? By cutting shallow grooves in a square pattern that is about at a 2x or 3x frequency to the width of the drawers, it will make the splits between the drawers disappear.     Having re-read your post,though, It appears that you are NOT Planning to have surface-mounted pulls (perhaps going with a cove on the inside of the drawer front?). In that case, the grid pattern would work even better at disguising the locations of the drawers.     Alternatively, you could do a Mondrian-like pattern on the front of the surface, with irregular blocks surrounded with black borders...lining up the black borders with the gaps where the drawers end.     Now...if you were willing to go with MDF drawer fronts, and put on a veneer, you could likely get as close a tolerance as you are looking for, and, would not run into the problems of wood movement due to humidity changes that you WILL have with solid wood fronts. by veneering the edges before the front, you can overlap the thickness of the veneer and take the front veneer right to the edge of the front.     My concern would be long-term stability. Life is tough on furniture, and, I fear that in fairly short order, the edges will get dinged and the illusion of a solid wall will be ruined. That sort of thing is fixable, but, alas, kind of a pain in the butt for color matching, etc.     Regards     Dave Mundt
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