Hey all you planer snipers!

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I've had my planer for about 6-months and NEVER changed the blades...ALWAYS had leading and trailing end snipe.
Changed my blades and the snipe is 'significantly' reduced.
How could that be?
The only thing I can think of is that the blades were not factory set correctly.
Any ideas?
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The blades are closer to the table than the old blades, by a hair? That would reduce, by a bit, the pressure from the rollers for the same depth of cut as before you changed blades. Could that explain the reduction in snipe for you?
Dave
stoutman wrote:

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I guess so. That does make sense.

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Seems blades being closer to the table would increase snipe.
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The rollers are the key; they put less pressure onto the workpiece if the blades are longer than the earlier set.
Leon wrote:

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Besides which, the OP stated that new blades sniped less. wouldn't new blades be longer than the worn ones, and thefore, proves the point, because the only change in position is RELATIVE; the relative height of the blades in relation to the rollers.
Dave
David wrote:

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they might also be sharper, right? would that effect snipe?

mac
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Sharp blades can snipe plenty if you've got a snipe-prone machine (some brands are worse than others) or if the tables aren't adjusted properly. I'm not sure the fact that the blades are sharp, in and of itself, would reduce snipe one iota. Then again, maybe I'm wrong.
Dave
mac davis wrote:

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FWIW I got rid of of my snipe problem by adjusting the tables.
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That's how we ALL reduce snipe. stoutman's post recounted a different scenario.
Dave
toller wrote:

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Nope. Those of us with iron planers adjust roller pressure and the chipbreaker.

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Stop gloating...
Dave
George wrote:

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George, can you elaborate on how the chipbreaker affects snipe?
-Chris
George wrote:

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It exerts the first pressure aft of the cutterhead, before even the outfeed roller. Should have springs enough to help against unsupported boards climbing into it. Those without springs should be close.
Best setup series for generic iron planers I ever saw was in FWW, though I can't recall the issue. It was almost the same as my manual on the Invicta. Quick search at the Taunton site ought to turn it.

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Blade sharpness significantly impacts how hard the machine has to work to reduce the surface of your stock. If the stock is cut more easily, then the forces which would cause snipe (stock moving relative to the cutter head after the ends move across the rollers) would have less relative effect.
Or something like that, I would think.
It's an idea. But I'm in software. Ask a hardware engineer.
And change the blades when the sound the planer makes seems to change. At least take them out, and clean the gunk off of them. Maybe a quick hone with some 800 grit wrapped around a chunk of maple.
Patriarch
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wrote:

damn... another problem with living on the west coast... I've never even SEEN a chunk of maple.. (or cherry, mesquite, birch, etc.)
mac
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<snip>

Lotsa big leaf maple in Norcal, Oregon & Washington. Good turning stuff. There's a 48" log of paper birch, 15" diameter, on my driveway that a friend rescued from the chippers when the tree trimmers were done.
I'm near Oakland, CA.
Friends are good to have. There's walnut due in this weekend.
Patriarch
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wrote:

hmm... I'll have to beat on my kid up at Fort Lewis to find me some hardwood! I have a garage and side yard full of logs and blanks now, but all pine, fir, etc...
mac
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Your kidding. I'm just outside Seattle and I cut two 50' maples out of my front yard.

SEEN a

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Maybe it's just my area, Central Calif.... all soft wood here... When I lived in the Bay area, especially San Carlos, there were white oaks all over the place as street trees...

mac
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