Henry Taylor registered chisels, my report

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You do some carving? I have that set of six Stubai bench chisels and they are awesome quality. They hold an edge perfectly well and the steel is superior to HT steel. I swear it, and they make a lot of carving tools.
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AAvK wrote:

You sure you didn't buy Marples? :) I had the same problem with the edges crumpling. got some Sears (made in England) that hold up remarkably well.
Dave
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No not Marples, these are (were) "registered" chisels, for mortising by hand on a woodworker's bench. I have a 5/8" Marples bench chisel with a boxwood handle, it will take niks super easy, from doug fir! That's pathetic.
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I've tried any number of brands of chisels over the years and have always come back to my black handled Stanley's.
They are not made any longer but you may be fortunate enough to find some on the resale market.
I've accumulated twenty or so of these and this has allowed me to turn some into paring chisels, while keeping the bulk of them as they came.
They were sold to schools and cabinet shops until some years back, when they were discontinued.
The steel is excellent, having a Rockwell hardness of C59-61, and they take and hold an edge very well.
I've a Sorby slick that has given good service in heavy work, and a couple of thirty year old Taylor cranked paring chisels that are very nice - but the day to day work is done by the Satanlys.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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- but the day to day work is done by the Satanlys.

"Satanlys" > BUWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA... Thanks Tom. I needed that giggle!
Those black handled Stanleys are no doubt #40 everlasts, yes they are excellent steel and they sell for very high prices on eBay, albeit with plastic handles and metal striking caps. Good choice! But could you please read the rest of the thread?
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I've pretty much read the thread. I'm just shaking my head.
I have blue handled marples, Stanley 40's, Stanley 750's and an assortment of others. I keep a diamond lap on the bench and when a chisel needs touching up, about 30 seconds takes care of it.
I'd rather work wood than search for the ultimate chisel. OBTW, the blue handles were used to build two hand made rocking chairs, chopping over 40 mortises in each. I know your supposed to use registered chisels for such work, but it's really not required.
Now when it comes to hand saws, I have three LN Independence saws. Oh well! Like the old farmer said when he kissed the caw, it's just a matter of taste.
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Yeah... folks don't read everything as added up to a conversation and they interject info from a lost standpoint.

I started out on SS, worked great for the quality of sharpness but it takes a long time, then I bought the two Norton water combo stones... heh... they take only a little less time to use. Not a huge advantage. I recently bought a dmt diasharp 600, awesome quick!

Yes I figured that eventually. All the mortise work for my bench trestle I did with forstner drilling and my Stubai bench chisels. I have an M-BC 1/8" I havn't used yet.

I am curious about those, how long does the sharpness last with constant work? Do they lose sharpness quickly? They mention it is Swedish steel hardened to RC 51-52???
I have a sandvik chisel (swedish), almost as bad as the marples with the boxwood handle. Niks too easy in soft wood with knots.
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--
">snip. I have an M-BC 1/8" I havn't used
> yet.
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I was interested because I have read that 'warrented cast steel' (of old) is a standard RC 60... thought that would be better, to buy old Disstons instead.
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I have old Disstons. They are nice, but they don't compare with the LN saws.
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On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 23:06:41 +0000, Lowell Holmes wrote:

How so? The steel, the tooth angles, the fit-n-finish? Inquiring minds want to know.
Regarding the original part of the thread: It seems most of the posters early on were doing work in softwoods where a WoodChuck(tm) could be made to do the job. It's not surprising that they were unimpressed with the high end chisels and fancy sharpening methods: they didn't need them for the job at hand.
I wonder if the poster whose gouge chipped too easily was cutting in and cutting out, or cutting in and lifting out?
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Who me? The OP? If so... it's just exactly as I described.
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Then I suspect with a performance issue, it would be the thickness of the blade, and the shape and grinding of the teeth.
But I have this really unusual saw, just to mention it, I found it in a thrift shop for like $3 or so... the blade is 0.021" thin, 2-1/8" depth of cut and 18" of teeth, 'bout 10 tpi and a ferruled gent's handle. No name either but very unusual these days. The end was messed up so I cut off 1".
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Am new to this forum so hope this is being done correctly. Have always gotten by w/cheap chisels, sometimes good, often not so good. Recently was given a full set of chisels, I have been unable to find out anything about. They look impressive, but I am not qualified by any means to judge that. I will describe them and hope someone can tell me about them: quality price, how to care for them etc. They have the Name Bracht in the middle of a triangle and wording on the triangle as follows: Vanadium, Carantie, and Wolfram. Have always wanted quality chisels, but didn't know which to pick. Hope these are good ones. Would appreciate any info on these that can be provided. I have done some searches w/out success, so don't know what I have.
Thanks for any info that can be shared, Thumbs
Lowell Holmes Wrote: > "AAvK" snipped-for-privacy@notquite.net wrote in message

> of

> assortment

> blue

> 40

> such

> well!

--
thumbs


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But could you please read the rest of the thread?
...sigh...
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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