For a panel glue-up it doesn't reallly matter if the boards have a little taper. Glue it up oversize and rip it parallel after. That's the only time I run the second edge over the jointer.
-Leuf
:> As I said, it's not a very good analogy.
: What woud be a better analogy?
I'm not sure. What makes the TS special compared to a jointer (or planer, or router with a straight bit) is that the blade extends back several inches from where it cuts, and it doesn't have a reference straightedge without the fence.
I guess the best I can think of is ripping on a TS (or a bandsaw) with the fence in place, but with the waste side running along the fence. So, you have aboard with one straight edge (call it A), a rough edge B to be trimmed, and you run B along the fence. The resulting trimmed edge C isn't going to necessarily be parallel to A.
Where things get dodgy (or my thinking about 'em does) is when you have A and B already parallel -- trimming it with B running along the fence WILL give you a new edge C which is parallel to A. Jointer is supposed to go the same way (i.e. the "rip on a TS to width plus a hair, trim hair with jointer" approach). But I have a gutt feeling it won't be necessarily parallel to A unless the operator has impeccable technique.
-- Andy Barss
CW wrote: : I'm not Leon but am an experienced plane user. It works much the same way as : a jointer and it, like the jointer will not in any way ensure that the : planed side is parallel to the other side.
Yup.
The jointer plane actually works slightly differently, in that the sole of the plane before and behind the mouth are coplanar (unlike the beds of a powered jointer, where the infeed table is slightly lower than the outfeed), and the blade protrudes down below both (unlike a jointer, where the blades are even with the outfeed table).
This ought to produce diffrent results, I would think, but in practice one can joint a pretty straight edge with a plane. I've never been sure of exactly why!
-- Andy Barss
OK, I agree, you probably have a better analogy here. At least closer anyway ;~)
If you say so.
I doubt it.
Keep practicing.
Stoutman,
I don't know why this is irritating me tonight, but it seems like you're overlooking some pretty important things again.
Things have to be done correctly, in the correct order, with the proper tools. It's your shop, and I'm glad you're happy with it- but you're going through a lot of extra work and probably frustration by apparently trying to make silk purses out of sows' ears.
So here goes, a few tips you're sure to ignore.
You've got a jointer, so I'll include that in the process- nothing wrong with the tool, and you already have it.
When you get your stock, joint one face... if it needs it.
When it is flat, joint one edge, if it needs it, by putting the jointed face against the fence.
If it needs it, plane the board to final thickness with the planer. This insures that the two faces are parallel, which the jointer does not do. If you do not own a planer, your next step involves a hand plane and winding sticks, which can be fun to use as well- but going back to the jointer will not help you unless you are doing a lot of stock removal and just need to do some hogging off the thickness before truing the piece by hand. You could also use a router with a pair of "rails" on either side of the stock to adjust the thickness, then sand or handplane the routed face- this will insure parallel faces if done correctly.
After planing, rip the stock to width using your table saw, with the jointed edge against the fence. This insures that both edges are parallel, which the jointer does not do. Rip the piece to final thickness- if you re-hit it with the jointer, you risk tapering it, tearout, or leaving mill marks that are very difficult to sand out if you feed too quickly, and will show up in your finish.
A good fence on the table saw is parallel to the blade without excessive fiddling, is sturdy enough to prevent deflection when ripping, and has an accurate indicator to allow for repeatable setups. This will result in a glue-ready edge provided that you have a good, clean, sharp blade, and have carefully set up your saw.
Then, crosscut the board to finished length. Occasionally, it will make sense to route or rip dadoes down an entire length before crosscutting, or route a profile on an edge, but we're just talking about a simple rectangle here.
There you have it. It's a simple, time tested method for preparing stock. All the gadgets and gizmos in the world will not do a better job if you ignore the process. You can get your jointer to micrometric precision, but if the fence on your table saw is out by a sixteenth, it isn't going to matter. Nor will it matter if your table saw is set to within one-tenth of a second of 90* if you are not cutting a final edge with it, or if the ass end of the fence is sliding out of adjustment when you're ripping (which happens fairly frequently with your $15 Delta stock fence, if mine was anything to go by.)
Once again, there is no magic bullet. There is no substitute for thought, care and practice. A gadget will help you in some cases, but you are losing something very important in the long run. If you're not willing to discover what that is, there is no way for me to explain it to you.
That is a solution, but the whole works will be out of square.
Thanks for the chuckle professor!
No it's not sir. The non-jointing edge of one rail will taper down. Both ends are square to the slat jointing edge.
Let me know if you are still confused. I can make a cad drawing for you.
Thanks professor.
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