Help with Jointer Setup

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"Pat Barber" wrote in message

Then add in board "length" ... IME, even on some well set up machines, the shorter the board the easier to induce taper, or in extremes, snipe.
You are dead on ... there are just too many variables/factors involved to be using a jointer for anything else but it's intended function, which is not 'dimensioning" stock, but preparing it to be dimensioned.
... and that in a specific, precise and methodical manner/procedure.
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Try running a board edge on your jointer 15 to 20 times and see if the edges are still parallel.
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Why would you joint a strait board?

jointers.
flat
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Sounds like a loaded question, but I will answer it anyway.
I routinely edge joint (lightly) after ripping to remove any saw marks.
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Stoutman
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Sounds like you need a better saw blade.

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Nope, not the blade. Is it the TS (most likely-have a look at my saw at my website)? Is it the operator? Not sure, but I am not alone in this operation.
How good is Nahmie's saw? He routinely does this as well.
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And I think we all agree including Norm that he does not always do things correctly.
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Your saw is way ahead of my Craftsman direct drive and, with it, I can go from saw to glue up.

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Ok. So what is your point?
I think it is either that: A) I am a shitty craftsman B) I have higher standards for glue-ups.
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For a panel glue-up it doesn't reallly matter if the boards have a little taper. Glue it up oversize and rip it parallel after. That's the only time I run the second edge over the jointer.
-Leuf
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If you say so.

I doubt it.
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"Stoutman" wrote in message

The genesis of the question about a tapered rail on the bed slats?
;)
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Maybe. Not the slats though. The rails that join the slats.
I did however come up with a solution. As long as you cross cut both ends of your rail using the same edge as your 90 reference against the fence, AND you use the same reference edge in the slat joinery, taper will not have an effect.
Let me know if this is not clear. I don't always explain things in the most comprehensive manner. :)

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That is a solution, but the whole works will be out of square.

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No it's not sir. The non-jointing edge of one rail will taper down. Both ends are square to the slat jointing edge.
Let me know if you are still confused. I can make a cad drawing for you.

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See alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
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Stoutman
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Keep practicing.
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Thanks professor.
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I'm not trying to edge both edges with the jointer. I'm just trying to get my one true edge so I can rip the other edge to parallel at the TS. I've not had this problem before so I'm assuming an adjustment I made a few weeks ago to eliminate snipe may have been too much of an "adjustment". Cheers, cc
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Good. I thought that when you stated that the jointer tapered your board that you were trying to prevent the taper. You are really only looking for straight and flat edges.
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