I found directions on how to make a Photo "Copy Stand" and went out
and bought the materials and started building it....I am unsure
whether or not I just have no idea what I am doing or the instructions
are poor and in some cases just incorrect...
The url of these directions are:
Primarily my questions have to do with the sizes of the pine. Some of
the instructions seem to be implied which doesn't help me any as I am
*NOT* good with woodworking (or any building for that
matter)...However, I am good at following good directions :)
If anyone could assist deciphering I'd appreciate it.
I'm up to #4
The plans call for the following:
2 pieces 3/4" thick plywood 16" wide by 24" long (for base)
2 pieces 1/4" thick hardboard (tempered board) 11" long by 4" wide (for
sides of sliding arm)
1 piece 3/4" thick pine 2" wide by 6-1/2" long (front of sliding arm)
2 pieces 3/4" thick pine 2" wide by 8-1/4" long (top & bottom filler blocks
of sliding arm)
2 pieces 3/4" thick pine 1-3/4" wide by 4" long (for back of sliding arm)
When you purchase lumber at one of the borg's (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) it
is "nominal" in size. For instance a 2"x4" (2 by 4) is really 1-1/2" thick
by 3-1/2" wide and a 1"x3" board is really 3/4" thick by 2-1/2" wide. So if
you were to purchase one board such as an 8 foot long 1 by 4 you would get a
board that is 8 foot long, 3/4" thick by 3-1/2" wide.
The reduction in sizes is from milling the boards.
Hope the above helps.
ALso- What is MILLING? and also what exactly is BEVELING in
woodworking? Do I need a special tool for this? The plans indicate
the need to bevel two pieces of wood. I know beveling in the sense of
what it *is*, but not sure how that translates to woodworking.
Milling is a sort of generic term meaning you take a machine (the mill) and
grind, plane, or otherwise change the shape or dimensions. In this case,
milling would putting the wood through a planer to reduce the thickness.
Beveling can be done many ways. You can use a hand plane, a router, or set
the blade on the table saw at an angle.
To bad you didn't ask questions before you started. First,
you could probably buy an old or trashed enlarger for much
cheaper than making this copy setup and it would work
better. Second, you certainly didn't need two pieces of
3/4" plywood for the base. Most enlargers are much heavier
and use only a 3/4" thick base, including my Beseler C23.
To answer your question. The pieces in the drawing and
dimension given for the wood are the exact dimensions. The
sliding piece is essentially a hollow box. The top and
bottom are identical, 2" wide and 8-1/4" long with a V cut
at the back end. To cut this V, measure 1" from the back
and make a line, measure 1 inch over on this line (center of
board width) and connect each corner to this point. That is
the line you cut on. The front piece (where you attach the
camera) is 2" x 6". The rear consists of two 4" long 3/4"
thick and 1-1/2" wide. However these two pieces have a 45
degree cut. So the final dimension is 1-1/2 wide on one
side and 3/4" wide on the other side. Don't know how you
are doing this but the easiest way is to clamp so that the
long dimension is vertical. On the end, measure 3/4 inch
toward the center from one corner and connect this point to
the other closest corner and saw vertically. (you may want
to make a mark all the way along the board for you saw to
follow) In other words, you will cut off a triangle that is
3/4" on two sides and 4 " long. Because they are only 3/4
thick that leave a space of 1/2 between them when you attach
them to the hardboard and that allows the clamp bolts to
pull them together. However they don't need to move
together much because the outside diameter of your 1-1/4"
pipe will nearly fill the square hole.
Hope this helps.
Yeah I know about the enlarger thing. But I wanted to challenge
myself as I am seriously challenged with building things and need to
improve that. (Designing, however, if my job) :)
Thanks alot for the clarification of the instructions!!!
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