My 10" Ridgid table saw has been pretty reliable (about 5 years old) and
overall I have been happy with the saw. However, recently it started
cutting rather poorly especially on rip cuts. I replaced the blade with
a quality thin kerf one and it was much worse - even burning crosscuts.
After checking this new blade (nothing seemed to be wrong it), I put
another back on it anyway.
I checked with a dial gauge the blade vs the miter slots - only about
0.002's off from one side of the blade to the other against the same
point on the blade. The dial gauge is a home made thing bolted to a bar
run in the miter slot (good quality). So, I think that means the
trunnion positions are OK.
Then I checked for wobble in the blade. It seems to be about 0.01 inch.
I'm not certain that I'm doing that measurement correctly but rotating
the blade by hand with the dial gauge against the blade (slightly
"inside" the carbide) can exceed 0.01 from one side of the blade to 180
degrees. It returns cleanly to 0.000 after 360. Looking carefully, I
can actually see it wobble.
I checked more than one blade, cleaned and checked the arbor, nut and
washer. No effect.
So, I take it all apart. The tilt lock bolt is bent and the bushing
like thing on the side wall supporting the tilt knob is pushed out the
saw side wall at least a 1/4 inch (a design problem there). I don't
know how this happened. My only guess is somehow the lock bolt binds
and it slowly bends when you tilt the blade over and over.
I bend all that back and the blade still has wobble even without the
belt tension and yet the arbor spins freely and seems to have no play.
There is a ground area between the threads and where the blade normally
sits that looks a bit too deep but seems to be original.
Ridgid's phone support was some help suggesting the arbor bearing and
they supplied a local repair shop and parts supply numbers.
So, finally my questions:
- I have seen plates for sale to use rather than a saw blade to check
the runout and alignment. Are these worth the dollars?
- More importantly, what should be the maximum "wobble" you measure with
a good blade, aligned saw, bearings in good condition, etc ?
I found one comment at Rockler that suggested 0.005" on a 10" diameter.
I find the "arbor runout" term confusing. I would think there are at
least three items: || to miter slot, vertical translation square to
table face, wobble in the arbor bearings, blade flatness, maybe others.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to use the saw in
this condition and I'm really don't care for the idea of someone else
working on it.