A friend has asked me to put crown moulding on his kitchen cabinets
but when I went to look at the job I found full overlay doors on
frameless cabinets, meaning that there is no available frame to attach
the moulding to and the doors go right up to the top of the cabinet.
How do I get around this problem. All tips and help appreciated.
: A friend has asked me to put crown moulding on his kitchen cabinets
: but when I went to look at the job I found full overlay doors on
: frameless cabinets, meaning that there is no available frame to attach
: the moulding to and the doors go right up to the top of the cabinet.
: How do I get around this problem. All tips and help appreciated.
If there is room above the cabinets, i.e. the cabinets do not go all the way
to the ceiling, you need to attach 'blocking' to the top of the cabinet. To
which you affix the moulding to...
Simple pine 1"x2" worked fine for me. In my case the blocking had to be
glued and nailed to the cabinet top prior to hanging the cabinets...
How much space do you have between the ceiling and cabinet top?
These sound like euro cabinets. If so, the doors can be adjusted down by
about 1/16" for clearance at the top. Nail a roughly 3/4" x 3/4" strip to
the cabinet tops where you want the crown. Nail the crown to that strip.
Thanks guy's. There's a good 18" from cabinet top to ceiling. The
doors are, as well as I can remember full overlay on top and bottom
too. No part of the frame is accessible when the door is closed.
I did a similar project a while back. In my case I didn't have space to get
above the cabinet to attach the nailing block, so I screwed them in place
from inside the cabinet. The good news is that with 18" of headspace above,
you don't have to worry about the ceiling being flat and level. My was way
crooked. What a pain! Yours will be easy.
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 03:32:00 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
talk him out of it.
if the cabinets (and the doors) go up to the cieling, you'll be
cuttinh off the top of the doors.
if there is space above the cabinets build a structure to attach the
firstname.lastname@example.org wrote in message
Mike , cut 2x4 blocking and fasten 2'-0" centers or so. If you are
also installing a dust top on the crown allow for this on the
blocking. I use 1/4" luan for this. Keep dust top at least 1/8" below
the top of crown. I usually install the dust top last, though you
could install it before the crown, 5/8" brad nail into top of blocking
is all you need.I install blocking with drywall laminating screw (
predrill hole ) and panel adhesive ( liquid nails ). One screw is
enough to hold blocking, adhesive will do the rest. I usually install
crown same day as blocking, adhesive is not cured but the screw holds
the blocking for installation of crown.
On 22 Sep 2004 17:38:41 -0700, email@example.com (mike) wrote:
this may be too late to do any good,
and someone else mentioned it in some form,
you can use what is commonly called 'pre-crown'
material; the cabinet shop i used to work for would
make strips of plywood 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches wide, put
edgebanding on one edge, and finish that edge and
the 'pre-crown' would be attached so that it overhung
the face of the cabinets (either screwed in from above
into the top of the cab, if clearance permits, or screwed in
from below, inside the cab)overhanging about 1/4 to 3/4"
past the face of the cabs, depending on this that or the other...
then the crown would be attached to the 'pre-crown',
usually *not* flush, but held up 1/4" or so...
depending on the height/weight of the crown, it might have
some supports/gussets to help structurally; if the crown
was particularly tall (or had a number of 'layers'), we
would put 'crown lids' over the whole shebang so that
-assuming enough ceiling space- the typical kitchen display
clutter/crap that is placed up there wouldn't be hidden
when it dropped behind a tall crown...
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