Help Me Figure Out How to Do This

Page 1 of 2  
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec, straight, square, parallel and all that.
The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding each wing to the make section.
When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing is in line and coplanar with the center section. When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than where it meets the center section. see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png
The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.
Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?
Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas... 1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to be coplanar. B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out enough to be coplanar.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Pick B above, shim the top and use masking tape. It works and stays put.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Masking tape was the shim suggested by Grizzly for leveling the tables. I had to do it on one side and it worked well. RonB
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 09/21/2009 05:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I shimmed mine.
Paper is about 3 thou. May be too thick. Tinfoil works and is thinner. Silver foil tape (the real stuff to use when taping ducts) is thinner than masking tape and will stay in place better than tinfoil.
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
-MIKE- wrote:

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Swingman wrote:

Glad to hear. ... and glad I was on the right track.
I have good masking tape and the metal HVAC tape that Chris suggested.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Go with Leon's solution.
Oh, and you still suck..... :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Joe wrote:

Thanks Joe, I'm still excited about it.
The arbor is perfectly perpendicular to the miter slots, within .001 inch. Once I shim that wing, the top will be perfect. I wired the motor to 240 and ran a dedicated circuit over to it. It's very quite... especially compared to my horrible Ryobi direct drive. I'm also surprised and pleased with how quickly the blade stops when turned of. It doesn't have a brake, I'm guessing it's the drag from the belt.
I added a big-ass 20 amp paddle switch from Grizzly, to replace the light switch the previous owner had on it. He had burned up the original and two replacement switches, direct from Delta. I've heard that Delta has had switch problem in the past. I wanted the safety of the paddle switch, so I spent the 20 bucks for something that could handle the amps.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!
Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive without this!?" :-)
Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room. But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to 1983. Then I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage saled it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Leon wrote:

Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve Turner wrote:

When you're in a single-car garage, and the footprint of a RAS is about 5x5, unless you're cutting those every day, it's not worth it to give up the space, when a decent dross-cutting jig can do it.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
-MIKE- wrote:

I hear ya, but there ain't too many cross-cutting jigs for the table saw that can handle the caliber of board I mentioned, at least not easily. Most compound miter saws can't handle a board that wide either, unless it's a slider. Before I got that RAS (thanks to you!) I had more than a few occasions to break out the Skil 77 or even my old Disston hand saw just to crosscut a big unwieldy board (try *that* on a piece of sugar maple!). Ya gotta do what ya gotta do though, and if ya gotta choose between the table saw and the radial arm saw, I think the choice is obvious: Get a bigger shop! :-)
--
If it ain't perfect, improve it...
But don't break it while you're fixin' it!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve Turner wrote:

Yeah, sorry, I wasn't clear. I was talking about a circ-saw. I get very clean and straight edges.

I'm checking craigslist. :-)
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote in message

That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes you can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Leon wrote:

Tru-dat.
With a good 7-1/4" blade, you end up with the same number of teeth, moving at about the same speed. And with the straight-edge/jig I use, it greatly reduces tear-out. I've also used carpet tape to secure a piece of hardboard to the bottom of a circ-saw to simulate a zero-clearance insert.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
-MIKE- wrote:

/me makes mental note, and writes it down just to be safe.
--
Froz...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is some of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto Woodworking Show I went to in march, I got demonstrations from a Festool dealer and a DeWalt dealer. The edges of the cut wood were comparable in most every way to what one could get on a table saw, but were much easier and certainly less space limiting.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote in message

Yup and Makita has one also. These saws could seriousely harm sales of "possible" sales of TS's also.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.