Help - Drill press chuck keeps falling out


Ok - this started a few weeks ago and now is getting to the point where its happening almost everytime I use the drill press.
I was drilling some holes using a fostner bit and the chuck just dropped off the spindle. Odd - Both parts looked clean - but I used some mineral spirts and cleaned the inside of the chuck and the spindle. I pressed it back on by putting the chuck on the table and just pressing the spindle into it via the handle.
It was fine for a few days - then it happened again. Took a closer look at things now - there seems to be a small burr on the spindle (maybe from when it fell off the first time??). I used some 400 then 600 paper to knock it off - Mineral spirts again and again was fine for a few more times then again - I cleaned and pressed on again - now it almost every time I use if there is any vibration at all - it pops off.
Any suggestions / help??
BTW - its a delta floor model DP - dont have the model # handy.
Thanks, Rob
You can reply to me at r_b_v at v_e_r_z_e_r_a doht c_o_m (remove the _ to get the address)
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Use acetone, not mineral spirits. No residue. I usually use a wooden mallet to seat the chuck. You don't really want to hammer on the chuck because the ball bearings will mark the races but you do have to seat the chuck so use reasonable care. max

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Hi this method always works place the chuck in a warm place for a few hours about 30 to 50 centigrade make sure the chuck is warmer than the drill spinal when fitting the chuck back on clean both tapers fit the chuck give the chuck one firm tap with a hide hammer let the chuck cool to room temp before using the drill used this method for the last 30 years Harold
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??? Please elucidate. Does your chuck fit "on" the taper rather than the chuck having a shaft with a taper that goes into the spindle? We used to put '60's & '70's Chrysler alternator(press fit) pulleys back on somewhat like this. Put the alternator itself in the ice chest(for bagged ice) for a while 20-30 min. and put the pulley on a hotplate for a few minutes. Grab the pulley with some channelock pliers and let it fall onto the shaft, then wait a few minutes for everything to equalize. Voila! Press fit again, only way it's coming off is with a puller.
I don't understand how your trick will work if the taper shaft is part of the chuck. Not trying to start a war, just confused.
--
Nahmie
Stupidity is not considered a handicap, park elsewhere.
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The confusion is between Jacobs taper, which holds the chuck to the Morse taper. I think the OP was having problem with the Morse taper and the heat/cold option won't work for that. -- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com
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Put spindel on ice & heat chuck on mamma's stove JROB
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better to remove those burrs with a scraper. you want to preserve as much of the original taper surface as you can.
paint thinner leaves a little oil behind. a cleaning solvent that completely evaporates is better. acetone, laquer thinner, alcohol, naptha...
inspect the inside taper as well. make sure that there isn't any crud in there.
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Once cleaned as suggested by the others, you must put the chuck in with some pressure. The wooden mallet is good. If you don't have one use a piece of 2x4. Don't beat it to death. Just make sure you have a good seat.

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Is this a jacobs J3 or J33 tapter or a Morse taper 2,3,4, etc? Easy answer finding exercise... Is there a slot to drive a drift into th force the taper out of the spindle? If so, it's a morse taper.
Now... Even if it is a morse taper, the chuck may mount to the jacobs taper on the end of the morse. When the chuck falls out, does it have a tang on the back or an open hole which mates to a small taper? If it has a hole, it's a jacobs taper.
If the taper has a burr, lightly run a flat file over the burr. Make sure you don't file the taper... just the burr.
For either, wipe them down with rubbing alc. or acetone. Put it on by hand and retract the chuck jaws into the chuck (most are best this way, some are better out... but hardly a few...)
Get a heavy hammer and a piece of 2X4... Place the 2X squarely on the end of the chuck and wack firmly up. It may be easier to lay the drill press over and swing sideways...
eMail me privately and I'll send you a "manual" we provide to our customers who need to do this...
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 21:13:42 +0000, Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Jaws in or out? I've seen it recommended both ways.
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On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 22:12:31 -0500, Australopithecus scobis

here's an interesting read: http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm
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Whatever the original manual said, if there is one.
My Delta manual says to open the chuck all the way. (This makes more sense to me, anyway.)
Eric
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It depends on the chuck. Some have a "housing" that is integral with what mounts on the taper so you put the jaws all the way "in" or open so that you hit the housing...
Some have a housing that will ride up or shift position when you hit it so you have to use the jaws of the chuck as your striking surface.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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