Could someone help me out with using a Jointer please. Mine skills are obviously lacking.
I have a PM model 50 6" and have been using it happily and without problem on shorter stock (
Could someone help me out with using a Jointer please. Mine skills are obviously lacking.
I have a PM model 50 6" and have been using it happily and without problem on shorter stock (
Do you have a hand plane or band saw that you can knock the ends of the /\ cupped sides off? You can then get it perfect on the jointer.
Roller stands or auxiliary infeed tables can help, but require some futzing to get right.
You can also use a router, with a bearing guided bit running along the factory edge of a sheet of ply or MDF, to get things close enough to run across the jointer.
If all else fails, can your wood dealer give you a quick straight edge?
Barry
well there's your problem right there. your jointer is for wood, not islands.
as an exercise, before you start jointing the wood, draw a line where you want to end up. make sure the line is straight (edge of plywood is straight enough) and check during/ after each cut to see what's going on.
Bill.
I find it works best to put a cupped board this way /\. If it's /\/\, I dunno, I'd probably go by the one that seems to be dominant if there is one, otherwise toss a coin.
I transfer the pressure to the outfeed table as soon as there's enough board there to allow it. It's the outfeed table that's coplanar with the knives and that's what you want to hold the board flat against.
If the cup is over a long distance, what I might do is to first run one end of the board through (in the /\ position) for a couple of feet and then turn it around and run the other end through. But don't try to do the whole board at once. This way the ends of the board will be straight and pressing the straight section on the outfeed table will support the part of the joint that's being cut. With each pass the straightened section will get a little longer and eventually the board should get close enough that you can run the whole thing through at once. (I admit I haven't tried this, but it seems like it ought to work.)
Yes, that's what I would do.
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I try to cut my lumber into shorter pieces when ever I can and then run it thru with the crown up. Rule of thumb is the lumber shouldn't be more than 1-1/2 times the length of the jointer. Mike
I didn't know that - why, so you don't make one long curve or something?
Then build whatever with it real fast before the moisture content equalizes and it warps again.
The tables may be coplanar, but it might be that the outfeed table's height is not adjusted correctly with respect to the height of the knives (or the opposite actually, but I'm too lazy to re-type it all). This would give you a cupped edge evry time. DAMHIKT :(
Just guessing.
Well, no. It's got to make it flat off the end after cutting. As you mention, it doesn't need to touch everywhere on the infeed to make a flat or straight board.
Glad to see that someone else realizes that taking off the high spots selectively versus running the whole board without sighting is the proper approach. Strangely, it's advocates of hand planing, where this is normal procedure, who have the most difficulty comprehending.
I recommend a hand plane, a jack, if not a scrub and jack to knock off the high spots selectively where there are severe differences.
I'm not sure that you said what you were trying to say here. Seems to me that if the entire board is in contact with the jointer bed the entire way, then you didn't need to joint it to begin with.
If you mean that in an ideal world the weight of the board would be supported by the jointer bed along its entire length during the final cut I'd certainly agree with that. But darned few of us have jointers with even 6-foot beds, so we have to make do with what we have.
Blind leading the blind?
I will be buying my first ever jointer tomorrow. It sounds to me like you are saying that you have a plank whose faces are fine, but with a bow in the edges. IF you have or can make a long enough straight edge, lay it from end to end in the cup of the wood (the concave side) Measure from the straight edge to the deepest part of the concavity. Make up two blocks this size and glue them to the ends on the opposite side of the board (the convex side) from the cupping. This will give you 'legs' that you can plane off at the same time as you plane off the convexity.
Mathematically, this solves your problem although I'm totally clueless as to how you will attach those legs.
One additional thought: you could use a shorter straight edge to measure a shorter distance. Then make the legs and affix them opposite the end points of the straight edge. This would be especially appropriate if the board is much longer than your table.
Like I said; I get my first ever taste of a jointer tomorrow evening. Be governed accordingly.
Bill
On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 21:42:04 -0400, Anonymous vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
You will at least then need infeed and outfeed long enough to support the legs right at the end of the board, right through the stroke.
How would that get rid of the bow if it's the full length of the board?
Not just nitpicking. I am interested, as you have tried to provide a solution.
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