Heat Resistant Finish for Wooden Trivet?

I want to make a few trivets out of wood. The last wooden one I had that was commercially made had a shiny surface. Any tips on what kind of finish this would be?
TIA Norm
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Many "HARD" woods will sand/polish out to a shiny surface with out any finish. Ipe for instance will polish out very nicely and actually has a fire safety rating.
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On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 13:31:36 +0000, Norm Dresner wrote:

There are professional (read: factory use only) finishes called conversion finishes; catalyzed lacquer. I have no experience with these products. Two part finish, like epoxy, you mix up and have a short pot spray life before becoming unusable.
OSHA rated breath masks are not an option, a requirement. Spray booth is recommended.
There is a class of conversion finishes where the catalyst is included in the can... the curing reaction starts with exposure to lots of air and is a spray finish only. These are called pre-catalyzed lacquers, or pre-cat lacquer. Many times sold in smaller quart containers as you would expect. Again, normally not sold to home based shops.
Before you run off to Homestead Finishing dot com to buy some pre-cat varnishes, take a moment and look at some trivets from neighbors and friends. Well used ones will have marks and finish wear to show the wooden trivets have been used. Some will even have marks of hot oven bubbled over food from the side and bottom of a dish coming in contact with the finish. Sort of difference between a house and a home. It really doesn't detract. Ask the women's opinion as to their favorite trivet and let that be your guide for effort to heat proof a wooden trivet.
So go ahead, try some water-borne acrylic lacquer from your local store which will be so much safer for you to apply. Not as great of heat proofing as the expensive pre-cat stuff, but what the heck, the important point is the trivet gets used. Wall hangings are a different subject.
Phil
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Phil Again wrote:

Depends on the finish. For epoxies a mask will do. For polyurethanes you need an air supplied respirator. Note that not using a mask will not kill you if you have enough ventilation that the solvents don't knock you down--the real danger with polyurethane is that it is a respirator sensitizer--one day you're spraying it without a mask, the next day being in the same building with an open can of the stuff puts you in the ER.

The ML Campbell Magnamax, a precatalyzed lacquer, actually brushes pretty well.

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wrote:

All the wooden trivets I've made had no finish at all. They were made to scorch, to burn, and to use. Sanding very smooth with a beeswax finish should give a low luster. Lacquer, varnish, and urethane finishes are very shiny, not sure what these would do if scorched, though.
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snipped-for-privacy@noone.com says...

I've used olive oil with a bit of gum/vegetable turps added for better penetration, applied 2-4 times. Not particularly shiny, doesn't prevent scorchmarks from a red-hot pan, but it works and is wet-wipable after food splashes. Our trivets are made from Blue Gum and they certainly do look *used* :-) but neither scored nor scorched.
-P.
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Norm Dresner wrote:

I've got one made with oak, with a BLO finish. It seems to be holding up so far, but I don't put any *really* hot stuff on it--only up to boiling or so.
Chris
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