I just finished putting down hardwood floors in my house(prefinished
oak). i have 11 steps that are made of pine. My wife wants them oak. I
did not like the look of the 2 1/4 planks and bullnose on the stairs so
I wondered if I would have expansion problems if I glue/screw and or
nail solid oak treads on top of the pine. I don't have it in me at this
point to rip out the stairs and start over. Thanks Keith
On 3 Feb 2006 03:09:07 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
firstname.lastname@example.org quickly quoth:
Most likely. Pine expands at a higher rate than oak.
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design
If you laminate hardwoor you will screw up the rise of the first/last step.
I had (old) pine treads... now I have white oak. Pine is a lousy material
for a stair tread unless you carpet it. It's way too soft.
Live with the pine for a few years, until it gets battered, then replace
Why do I think this guy isn't married? Note the words "my wife wants"!
I'd sure try it. Attach with a few screws countersunk and pegged. Maybe
leave the screws on the back edge a little loose. Does your area have
extreme humidity swings?
You can plane the treads on the ends to change the rises in smaller
increments and no one will notice.
You could attach some wide noses that cover the nose of the pine and make
the oak treads look heavy.
I got in a hurry and bought my treads when I found out I didn't have full
width stock on hand. http://www.hardwood-lumber.com/treads.html are good
people and the price was pretty reasonable. I was disappointed they are
glue ups, not one piece, but they really don't look bad. Saved me a lot of
I wonder how some heavy veneer would do?? Most of us really don't put much
wear on stairs these days.
In my case, I was adding 3/4" flooring on both ends, so it all works out.
On the other hand, I had the first floor flooring in well before the
stair treads, and I really never noticed a difference.
On 3 Feb 2006 03:09:07 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
When I redid my stairway, I put oak treads on top of solid pine
framing material (2 x 10). I used construction adhesive and four
screws in each one (from the botom up). So far,(several season
cycles) so good, no differential expansion problems. I think the
construction adhesive stays flexible enough to move a little as
necessary and the pine is soft enough to let the screws give, but I
wouldn't use a wood glue. And, of course, the grains are both running
in the same direction.
The only thing I would do differently is the method of installing the
cove bed molding between the riser and the tread above it. I used
finish nails and nailed to both pieces. If I had it to do over I
would only nail to one, probably the riser. Before I put that molding
on the stairs were dead quiet and rock solid. They are still rock
solid but they creak and click a bit from the molding trying to
stretch and move as you step on the tread. Even with an inch tread
and 1.5 inch subgrade it deflects a little with weight, enough to get
that molding to sound off.
On 03/02/2006 6:09 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I did this and have had zero problems. I used cherry instead of oak, and
used 2 flooring strips (4.25") with a routed bullnose on the front strip
instead of a solid plank, but that shouldn't make a lot of difference. I
glued down the treads, and used 3 screws at the front edge, plugged with
the same wood. I was worried a bit about the extra 3/4" in rise on the
bottom step, but after one day I never noticed it again, and nobody
that's used the stairs since has ever noticed. If it really bothers you,
do the floor at the bottom as well. I live in Ontario, and have changes
in humidity from winter to summer.
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