Hardwood Prices

Is $2.85 USD/BF reasonable for kiln dried 4/4 rough sawn Red Oak?
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
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Hartville Hardware in Ohio is having their tool sale this week and they have oak in 100bf bundles for $ 2.19/bf. I have 200 BF @ @1.89/bf but I had to drive 2 hours.
Eddie

know
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Eddie,
Where in Ohio are they? I live in W.PA.
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain

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Al,
In the Erie PA area I just bought rough sawn red oak for $1.70 a board foot. In my case, I only purchased less than 20 board feet.
TEF

you
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For that price it may be worth the drive from just south of the 'Burgh. Do you have a name and address for that supplier?
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain

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Al - If you're in Pittsburgh and don't minding driving a couple of hours to Duncansville (east of the 'Burgh & north of Bedford on the Turnpike), try Mountain Lake Lumber. I don't have their phone number with me, but they're in the book - or, try the "Yellow Pages" on Yahoo!. I bought 8" wide 4/4 red oak from him for $1.50/bf. Plus, he has Cherry, and other species too. He had some really good Ash (6/4) for $1.80 bf. He's also got white oak, and a good selection of other stuff. He's just a one man operation. He has a band mill, and a kiln, so he can do custom stuff too.
Nice guy on top of all that -
Nick B

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What grade of red oak are ya talking about? Curious here because I bought rough-sawn for $.75/bf, but that had a lot of small knots and wormholes (I think - small holes about 2mm diameter). I'd guess about 1/3 of it is clear wood that I'd use on exposed surfaces.
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Keith - This stuff is F&S (?- Firsts & Seconds)no knot holes, no splits on the ends. It's good clear lumber, but rough sawn. He also has some lesser grades, but charges less for them.

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13163 Market Ave N, Hartville, OH, 44632-9065
I keep meaning to check them out somethime but never have. Hartville, Ohio, is close enough to the Ohio turnpike to have a sign for Hartville at the appropriate exit which is somewhere a bit east of Warren.
--

FF

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snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net (Fred the Red Shirt) wrote in message

My bad, they are actually southeast of Akron according to MapQuest.
http://www.hartvilletool.com/index.php?PHPSESSID 934d8cb7d0e6b45d6b889ff9e7d51a
--

FF

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Thanks!
-- Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain

http://www.hartvilletool.com/index.php?PHPSESSID 934d8cb7d0e6b45d6b889ff9e7d51a
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If it's FAS and straight, yes, if you can pick through the pile even better.
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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It depends on the grade...
FAS is running about that price #1 common is .50 less #2 common is 1.00 less
If it's air dried or green cut, probably about .75 - 1.00 a BF.
Some small saw mills also don't do much in the way of grading their lumber, so what you get might not be worth any of the above prices.
If you bought 100bf that causes another price shift..(down)
If you bought less than 100bf that causes a upward price shift.
It also depends on "where" in the world you are.
So to answer your question, "it depends".
Al Reid wrote:

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On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 12:32:53 -0500, "Al Reid"
It is in Connecticut!
Barry
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...clue needed...where in CT? Tired of $6+ in NY (and have actually worked out a deal with my firewood supplier to sell me 7' logs with absolutely no idea of how I'm going to make usable boards out of them but more that a few are on their way). CT ain't that far from here.
in message wrote:

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Tom Kohlman wrote:

Hi Tom,
If you're near Windsor, CT and can use oak "shorts" ping me off line.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 02:12:15 GMT, "Tom Kohlman"
http://www.harrisent.com/PLLumber.html
http://www.cwghardwoodoutlet.com/hardwood/product.shtml
Barry
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Depending onthe species you may be able to use wedges to quarter the logs, then drawknife off the raggedly parts to get something that can fit on a bandsaw depending on just how big the logs and the bandsaw are.
ALso depends on if you have a bandsaw and can find a drawknife.
BTW, about a year ago I was at a lumber yard and one of the guys there was cutting (I forget what they're called but they looked like shelf brackets on steroids) out of 4" thick stock using a hand held bandsaw. This had a table on it like a stationary band saw but was used 'upside down' with the table resting on the board rather than vice-versa. My first thought was Yegads what a dangerous tool. I could imagine accidently dropping it and cutting my foot off at the ankle.
My second thought was to wonder how big these guys get and if one could be adapted for a home-built bandsaw mill. I've used a chainsaw mill and even with a ripping blade they cut pretty slow. A bansaw blade takes a much narrower kerf and so should cut faster.
Any thoughts? This was a bandsaw, not a reciprocating saw.
--

FF

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Advantage Lumber has it for $2.60 http://tinyurl.com/vlyq West Penn has it for $2.70 http://tinyurl.com/vlyu I'm sure freight is added ;(
--
Erik "Grumpa" Ahrens
Apprentice Termite
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