Harbor Freight Bandsaw Blades.

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On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:50:59 -0500, Leon wrote:

Doesn't your Woodcraft sell Timberwolf?
And I second the recommendation - very good blades.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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I don't recall, IIRC the last time I looked they were a little more expensive than buying dirrect. They don't have 150" blades so I don't keep up with them. I am still working on the several that came with my saw.

Oddly, I never could get a Timberwolf to do worth a darn on the Rikon, I had a blade made for it locally and it worked just fine along with the one that came with the saw. Again IIRC Laguna uses the same steel and or coils that Timberwolf does and those blades work very well on my Laguna.
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On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 20:01:58 -0500, Leon wrote:

I'm using a 1/2" Timberwolf for resawing on my 14" Rikon - the one with13" resaw. Works like a champ. I did round the back of the blade, did you try that?
And surprisingly, the blade that came with the Rikon wasn't all that bad as you said. We did have one on an 18" Rikon at the store that gave some problems resawing maple burl into veneer. Switched for a Timberwolf and there was a considerable improvement.
I've heard that the Highland Hardware resaw blade is even better, but I haven't tried it.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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Yes, the biggest problem was keeping the blade in one spot relative to the back thruss guide. the blade would move forward and backward about 1/8" when turning and not cutting. Timberwolf and I had several conversations over the matter.

So far I am pretty impressed with what Laguna sells and they are not that badly priced on the standard type blades. I'll probably stick with them.

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Wait. Or go to Highland Hardware. Why bother taking a chance. Bandsaw blades are cheap enough even when they're excellent.
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Charlie Self wrote:

I take the chance because of HF's excellent return policy and the adventure involved with "you never know." :-)
Thanks for the Highland recommendation.
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-MIKE-

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Bill wrote:

Yes, but it's never ruined a project.

My discernment get sharpened with every purchase. :-)

I will, but I'm afraid my opinion might suffer from lack of experience with many different blades.
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-MIKE-

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-MIKE- wrote:

No answer re HF blades but how many blades do you want? All you really need are a couple...a skinny one for doing curves, a wide one for resawing. The two I use are...
1. 3/16" 4 tpi skiptooth http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID '290
2. 1/2" 3-4 tpi (variable) hook. You won't find a better one for resawing without laying out very big bucks. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID 93
I have a bunch of others in a cabinet...sizes from 1/8" to 3/4"; TPI from 14 to 3. I bought them when I first bought the bandsaw, never used most. Why? For one thing, it is a PITA to change blades on a bandsaw; main reason is I never needed them.
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dadiOH
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-MIKE- wrote:

If it were me I'd go to Woodworker's Supply and order up a couple of their Starrett/Bahco blades:
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM 9-537&search=Sawblades%20-%20Bandsaw&smode=&showsingle I don't know if some of their blades are Starrett and some are Bahco, or if the blades are the product of a joint venture; the website isn't clear about it. I ordered four different blades for my MiniMax and they all came with Starrett tags on them. In any case, both brand names are highly regarded and the blades I received are excellent quality and reasonably priced.
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Steve Turner wrote:

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM 9-537&search=Sawblades%20-%20Bandsaw&smode=&showsingle=

Thanks, Steve. The prices look reasonable.
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What makes a bandsaw blade good, one better than another? Is it just magazine reviews and their stamps of approval? Can a mortal man, average Joe Woodworker, make that determination for himself?
$5 - $10 blades are the run of the mill carbon steel. If you're able to test it, consistent, good metallurgy in the blade is best. For usability, are the teeth sharp, and the set consistent? Are the teeth ground or are they stamped? These show in the quality of cut.
$20 to $30 should buy a good quality bi-metal blade. These have high speed steel teeth for sharpness, married to a carbon steel band for durability. High speed steel retains its temper at higher temperatures. They last longer than the cheaper carbon steel blades, by about the same ratio as the difference in price.
Got $120 burning a hole in your pocket? Get a 3/4" blade with welded carbide teeth for resaw.
How many TPI? Hook? skip tooth? regular?
There was a point when I was frenzied about making the decision. I have a 1/4" bi-metal 10-14 TPI for general use and joinery, and a 1/2" 3-4 TPI thin kerf for resaw. There's a box full of other stuff I bought when I got the saw, but I'm still using only those two blades. (Along with the original Delta metal guides.) I wouldn't know about Highland's WoodSlicer. It's the same spec as the KerfMaster I buy from Spectrum Supply for $20. I'm pleased with the KerfMaster. If the WoodSlicer really cuts better, it would truly be a phenomenal blade, perhaps even cheap at $30.
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MikeWhy wrote:

I'm getting that response a lot. I get the feeling, I'll be repeating it a year from now. :-)
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-MIKE-

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MikeWhy wrote:

I can't compare it to your Kerfmaster as I've never used the latter; however, it is hands down better compared to the highly touted Timberwolf. I bought one of those once, tried it once, put back the WoodSlicer and have never used the Timberwolf again.
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-MIKE- wrote:

The ratios on the HF stuff might be a bit severe but when it comes to the bandsaw blades, pure "I don't think I want to use one of those, thank you."
My preference is Carter blades from Carter Tool Co. I have tried the others, Timberwolf is good, as are most of the other name brands, and just like them better.
As an aside, my general rule for buying stuff at HF is, the pnuematic nailers and cordless drills are fine for the hobbest. For the rest, if I see it advertised at another vendor (Grizzly, Garret Wade, etc) I will buy it at HF and save a few dollars.
Deb
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wrote:

Why not buy one of each to compare? Personally, I'd rather not fool around and buy the best blade I can get.
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-MIKE- wrote:

The last time I posted, what was essentially the same question, it appears no one in this group has tried the HF offering. So, as soon as I get my next 20% off coupon, I will buy one and be the sacrificial ram and bleat out the results.
Baa to all
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Frank Howell



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Frank, I was about to make a comment that not a single person had tried one, just constant rants against HF. I'm in the same boat - I'm not in the market for a blade (have a few) and I've not tried HF. Buddy tried their circular blades, both 7 1/4 and 10 and swears they are great. Probably not in the class with WWII.
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I've got 10" blades from HF on both table and chop saws right now. They are ok. Hell, for the $10-$20 apiece I paid, they are great. They are fine for rough to "rustic" projects. When I start on some finer projects, I'll probably get better blades.
Hmmm.... for that matter, my chop saw is a 25 year old Black and Decker. *It* probably ought to get upgraded.
Ed
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Why pay $10-$20 for the craps when you can buy for the same for Oslson Pro? I had tried Timberwolf including Viking from Lee Valley, I still think you cannot go wrong with Olson Pro.
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/accessories/saw/bandsaw_14.html http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/Olson_C149.cfm?strSortBy=&Page=3
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