Hanging a cyclone

I just purchased an Oneida 2HP cyclone. The estimated total weight is about 200 lbs.
I have two options given the proposed installation :
Wall mount: Most likely. I have two options available to me. I can hang the cyclone on the wall or I can build an enclosure. I have concrete block. My thoughts were to install a 2X8 PT. Mount it on the wall with construction adhesive and secure using concrete screws. I would the mount the cyclone hanger to the 2x8 PT. I was also thinking of placing some ceiling tile above the DC to prevent upward propogation of the sound to the floor above since I am in the basement.
Enclosure: I have just enough vertical clearance for the cyclone to consider an enclosure. I also have a lot of scrap 2x6 lumber. I was thinking of building a box that would "fit around the cyclone on three side and then screw in the from panel. That panel would have an access door.
I am concerned about heat from the motor. Specifically, what would give me the best airflow for it. The motor has a cooling fan but that air has got to go somewhere.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Keith
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I just finished my 2hp commercial install and used the oneida one pc wall mount. I found that it had too much flex so i supported the front of the blower housing with two pcs of threaded rod that go vertical to a pc of unistrut therefore supporting half the weight. I'm pretty happy with the end result, but without beefing up the mount it had way too much flex(the whole cyclone bounced around with the slightest bump. The blower motor does run very hot so i would be nervous about enclosing it. Also a Keith
Keith wrote:

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Keith,
Extra rods: I can certainly understand the movement. Do you find that adding the threaded rod translates vibration into the studs. My shop space sits below our family room and I have steel studs.
I have that one piece mount as well. How did you affix it top the wall?
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Keith-My shop is also below my bedroom. The threaded rods probably do transmit some vibes, but my wall mount is lag screwed to some 2x6s "studs" that sit on top of my concrete 1/2 wall and are connected to an another 2x6 that spans a couple ceiling joists, so much of the vibes would be transmitted anyway. You can hear it in the bedroom and feel a slight vibe in the floor,but it is not loud enough to be a problem. You can stand next to the cyclone while running and not wear hearing protection, but its right at the point of being "loud". keith
Keith wrote:

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Keith,
You didn't mention what type of bin you plan to use. Do you have a fifty gallon drum, cabinet base, hopper, etc? Whatever you build, you probably want to keep in mind that you don't want to be lifting your cyclone up and down on it every time you need to check or empty the bin.If you build an enclosure, do you plan to mount the cyclone on top of a shelf and have some sort of can underneath that can be pulled in and out? This would work well assuming you seal up the lower chamber. I'm not sure what type of airflow you need to cool your motor. You might be able to put a small blower motor like one from an old microwave or something on the top (cyclone section, not dustbin) of the cabinet to circulate the air. Then you could really go to work sound-proofing it. With your 2 x 6's you could put some serious insulation between two layers of drywall. You could even use 2 x 8's for the base and top plates and alternate every other stud so that no stud touches both walls. Okay, I'm going off on a tangent.
My cyclone has a cabinet base on heavy duty casters. The cyclone is mounted directly to the base and there is an internal bin inside the cabinet. It seems like a good design. I haven't actually hooked it all up yet.
Eric T
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Eric T (robdingnagian1) wrote:

Eric, do you have any pictures of that cabinet posted anywhere? It sounds like a great design.
Tim Marks
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Think carefully before using construction adhesive. Once it is on the block wall, it will never ever come off. If I were you, I'd just attach the 2x8 to the wall with TapCon screws- use one screw every 12 - 18 inches. The holding power of these things is absolutely amazing. I hung a 25" TV on a block wall with just 4 of these screws. Two years later it is still hanging strong.
Assuming the 2x8 goes all the way to the floor, there is really not going to be a lot of stress on the screws.
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I have a floating slab so the board does not bee the floor. I suppose I could extend a board from the floor over and create a junction.
That being said, the majority of the load would be at the top. Perhaps, I should attach this to the sill plate as well. I am also thinking of attaching the mount with the tap-con screws as well - going through the mount, the wood plat and into the wall.
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Keith wrote:

First advice...make sure you have an extra set of hands to help you. I did this alone because I couldn't find anybody to help at the time I needed it.
Like others have mentioned, the one piece hanger has some flex. I used a sheet of 3/4 in ply to mount the hanger to and then bolted the entire assembly to a wood studded wall. I didn't have enough ceiling height so I had to frame a box above the unit which extended into my attick area. I'm in Phoenix and haven't had an issue with cooling this unit even though the motor is only an inch or so from the ceiling.
I added a block of wood to the wall to support the lower portion of the cyclone to eliminate the flex of the hanger.
I have pix if you want them posted to abpw.
Gary
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Keith wrote:

Keith, I built a freestanding frame to mount my 1-1/2 HP Oneida cyclone (about 2 years ago), I decided not to mount it to the wall because it is the wall that seperates the shop (garage) from the house-didn`t want to transmit the noise through the wall. The frame is made of 1/4 inch angle steel and the frame is bolted to the floor. It is solid as a rock. Holler if ya want a picture. -Dan
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