All, I "Scary Sharpened" my #4 plane iron and practiced on pieces of scrap.
After this, I thought I was a 1/2 step above totally inexperienced to smooth
my glued up panel of red oak, or at least trying to even out the glue lines
(yes I'd removed the dried glue squeezeout beforehand). Aiggggh! My first
attempt however I must have had the blade set too deep as it skipped along
the surface and left 3 or 4 gouges or ruts about 1/8" wide, 1/2" long, maybe
1/16-1/32" deep - definitely noticeable.
I am not sure how to fix. I was going to try and finish this piece without
sanding, but... Should I try and plane the entire piece down to the depth
of the gouge? I'm a little gun shy about picking up the plane again...
maybe just sand out around the entire area and try to not make larger
depressions? The piece is probably 18" across, too wide for my planer, and
I don't have access to a wide belt sander. Advice, suggestions!?
I have my best luck with translucent shavings. I will start without blade
contact and then advance the blade until it starts to make shavings. I may
advance it a bit more until I get a definite continuous shaving that is
translucent. I then will fiddle with the lateral adjustment if the shaving
is not full width. Sometimes reversing the direction helps if your getting
chatter. Don't despair, have fun.
You know that old saw the finishing gurus use? "Practice on scrap"?
As you've learned, there's more to tuning and adjusting a handplane than
getting the blade sharp. And this fellow, Jeff Gorman, has more than
sufficient to help you, here: http://www.amgron.clara.net/index.htm
There's a reason that an apprenticeship was longer than 6 weeks...
As he said, start with Jeff Gorman's site, but don't expect that to solve it
all. From the above, I take it your practice scraps were not oak, so that was
the first mistake. There are also harder woods to plane, and you need to try
an appropriate sample before comitting your actual work to it. And for just
removing glue lines, I'd suggest you try a hand scraper or scraper plane, as
it's much easier to avoid tearout. Although, of course, you'd need to read how
to sharpen and use them, so there's a bit more learning there.
As for fixing, easiest is to use the other side and hide this one, or apply
some filler. Failing that, it sound like you'd have to remove maybe 1/16 from
the surface, which may be tough with only a #4.
Finally, realize that even the best with everything tuned up will sometimes
get some tearout. You have to carefully watch the grain and how the first few
My thoughts exactly; I just stopped with the question part to see if that's
what he means. I also have a couple of scrapers with different angles, and one
with just a squared edge for fine work.
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