I'm about to route tenons to attach a breadboard end on a table top.
I obviously don't want to screw this up, as I have spent a lot of time
on gluing up the top (with fair results), and don't want to spoil the
whole thing. I'm also looking to expand my tool collection with the
addition of some hand planes. Since this project is on the front
burner, I might as well buy the correct hand plane for fine tuning
tenons to match the mortise. What type of plane works best here?
I was thinking of a rabbet plane Do the blades on these run the full
width of the iron? so as not to leave a lip on the inside corner of
the tenon? If so, wouldn't such a plane work well for this? Do they
work well on cross grain work?
: burner, I might as well buy the correct hand plane for fine tuning
: tenons to match the mortise. What type of plane works best here?
A shoulder plane. It's like a rabbet plane, but with an extremely fine
mouth that allows for extremely thin shavings.
: I was thinking of a rabbet plane Do the blades on these run the full
: width of the iron?
so as not to leave a lip on the inside corner of
: the tenon? If so, wouldn't such a plane work well for this? Do they
: work well on cross grain work?
If you can get one, a skewed-blade rabbet (or shoulder)
plane works great cross grain. This has the blade
non-perpendicular to the main axis of the plane.
You'll have to dip into the old tools
domain for this -- there is AFAIK no skewed shoulder or rabbet plane
currently being made.
-- Andy Barss
Ditto that! I have all three Veritas shoulder plane, and they all are
excellent tools at a fair price. Mine needed a wipe with K1 to remove
the cosmolene, a quick swipe at the 8000 grit waterstone and they were
off to work.
Clifton shoulder planes are also excellent, but I don't see why they
should cost as much more than Veritas as they do. Lie Nielsen
shoulder planes are typical works of art, but they don't make a
comparable medium sized model, and you pay for what you get.
Yeah - ideal for the stated purpose (adjusting tenons) too.
Unfortunately they're hard to find. L-N makes one (which is
even cooler than the original), but it costs a chunk of change.
L-N also makes a "rabbet block plane" which would serve well,
altho it's not exactly cheap either.
As others have suggested, a skewed rabbet plane (#140) is good for
this, and a shoulder plane can also do it well. In this particular case
(breadboard end), I'd say the #140 would be better. In addition to the
skewed iron, it is a fenced plane, so it will be easier to control the
width of the cut and it's easier to register for verticality.
Yes, and for the "normal" methods of making tenons, like nibbling, with dado
or running over a router bit, there's seldom a problem with the shoulder
being straight. There is often a problem of thickness, however, and I
heartily recommend LN's rabbet block for that task. It'll shoulder, too,
but not as well as a shoulder plane like the LV ones being mentioned. I own
the medium sized one of those, too. It works worse on cheeks than the
rabbet block on shoulders, in my experience, so I'd first get the rabbet
Damn nice block plane, too.
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