Hand plane rust

I read on a message board where someone suggested using a combination lacquer/paint thinner on hand planes to keep away the rust. Has any one used or tried this? Any thoughts about this approach?
Mike
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On 10/12/2013 3:25 PM, Michael wrote:

I keep mine in draws with kitty litter. The kitty litter soaks up the moisture hopefully keeping my planes clean... wax also helps.
--
Jeff

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This was advertised recently on Lee Valley Tools. It reduces friction and contains corrosion inhibitors.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?pp854&cat=1,43456
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On Saturday, October 12, 2013 4:49:03 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

This looks good. Not a bad price either.
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On Sat, 12 Oct 2013 17:49:03 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

What about TopKote or Boesheild?
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On Sun, 13 Oct 2013 18:24:46 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Fine Woodworking #227 had a test of 20 different rust preventative products. Including Topkote and Boeshield. They didn't test ProtecTool Wax; they did test Renaissance Wax which may be similar in that they both use microcrystalline wax.
The products were tested on A2 steel and cast iron. In either case the product was applied and then the metal was sprayed with water and left outside 10 days.
The best overall product was CRC Industrial 3-36, which at $6 per spray can (Amazon) seems inexpensive. It had perfect results on both types of metal. Moovit did well on the tool steel but not the cast iron (available from Lee Valley) and so was FW's choice for hand tools if you don't like the smell and feel of the CRC.
Boeshield did pretty well but not perfect on the tool steel, not so well on the cast iron. Topcote did less well on the tool steel and a bit better on the cast iron.
Renaissance Wax didn't do very well on either. No wax or oil tested as well as several of the sprays.
== Another type of product goes in a drawer with your tool, like the kitty litter but a little more rust specific by releasing volatile corrosion inhibitors into the air that attach to metal. Zerust has a line of products for this purpose (available on Amazon).
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On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 18:01:57 -0700, Jim Weisgram

I've been using Boeshield on my table saw and drill press. It's certainly not perfect and I don't like the surface much. Friction is an issue on the saw (not so much the DP). I've been told to try TopKote, which I might, but I'll have to remember to order it from somewhere. Also, stripping off the Boeshield may get interesting.

I have little problem with hand tools. Few are cast iron.
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[...snip...]>

I've used Boeshield, and I had the same problem. What I did was to buff it out and then apply wax over it. That has worked well for me.
But I don't live near the coast.
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On Friday, October 18, 2013 8:01:57 PM UTC-5, Jim Weisgram wrote:


Great information. Thanks, Jim. One reviewer left the following comment. I wonder if the petroleum film will get on the wood?
--------------------- Based on Fine Woodworking product testing I purchased this product. My tool s are in a dehumidified, insulated garage. The product is petroleum based w hich I didn't realize (my fault) when ordering. I've tried this on the bed of a Powermatic 12" jointer. The product definitely leaves a petroleum film which is a pain to remove before using the tool. Also, the rust never stop s. I can find no difference from many of the traditional ant-rust products that are non-petroleum based. A regular application of topcoat after each u se seems to provide the same protection and much less hassle.
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[...snip...]

Hmm. I recall the FW article mentioned the film but said it doesn't interfere with a finish.
I'm not too clear on why this product worked so well in testing for FW but not well in a garage shop. Or why there would be much rust at all in a dehumidified insulated garage.
I have an unheated garage with no dehumidification in Oregon's Willamette Valley (famous for it's rain) and I don't have much rust problems. I've been using Boeshield and will keep using it until my can is used up, and it didn't fare that well in the FW testing. The FW testing was a pretty brutal accelerated exposure to water, not a real world test.
I'm not certain that you can do a real world rust protection test of 20 products in a reasonable amount of time.
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On 10/12/2013 2:25 PM, Michael wrote:

I would say that would have absolutely zero effect, and might even accelerate the onslaught of rust because those are solvents that would probably remove any other kind of protective film that would actually serve the intended purpose.
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AFAIK, lacquer thinner and paint thinner don't mix together. Might, never tried it, but even if they did how could they prevent rust? Both evaporate leaving no residue.
Now, kerosene, maybe...it leaves a slightly oily residue behind. In some places they mop terrazo floors with water that has a bit of kerosene in it. The residue from the kerosene gives it a shine.
--

dadiOH
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