Grumpy: TS Still Burning

That is really just a band aid to hide a problem. It helps the keeper side stay cleaner but the waste side begins to hit the back side of the blade and it too may show tooth marks or burn. If you plan to use the waste side little has actually been gained. Better to set everything up correctly in the first place. You run your miter gauge parallel to the blade, your fence should also be parallel to the blade also.

Reply to
Leon
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Reply to
Larry Kraus

msschm and Larry: I clamped the dial indicator to the crosscut sled about midway between the front and back fences. The blade is OUT OF ALIGNMENT with the sled by .008", How can this be, I ask when the blade is within .0005 to the left-hand miterslot?

So I check Leon's suggestion and test the alignment of the right side miter slot. Guess what, it's out by .011. There must have been enough slack in the left-hand slot that the crosscut sled is tracking mostly to the right-side miter slot.

Also, I was somewhat wrong in saying that there is burning on the sled but not when using the fence (without the sled). I had been checking the cut panels, not the offcut. Because the burning is on the offcut when using the fence, I wasn't noticing it when cutting using the fence

-- I wasn't checking the offcuts. When using the fence, the burning is less than when using the sled, but still noticeable.

SSSOOOOOOO.....

I guess I'll need to double check the fence alignment.

And now my question becomes, Ok, how do I correct for the misaligned miter slots to overcome this problem. O yeah, once I fix this miter slot, how can I re-align my crosscut sled .

Growl.

Reply to
Mr Fixit eh

Is this a new saw? If so see if the manufacturer will get yo a new TS top and begin the alignment fun again.

I do not think you can other than using the slot that is actually parallel to the blade and do not use the other slot. Remove the sled runner that fits in the slot that is not parallel.

Reply to
Leon

That would manifest itself as out-of-square cuts, not as burning.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Reply to
Doug Miller

DAMHIKT = Don't Ask Me How I Know This

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Wouldn't matter.

Reply to
CW

Won't matter.

Reply to
CW

Nope.

Reply to
CW

Are you sure it's not just a dirty blade? Last few times I had that problem a thorough blade cleaning got rid of the burning.

I was using an 80 tooth blade on some plywood. Blade was dirty - bad burning. Cleaned the blade - still some burning.

Looked at notes that came with blade. Noticed it was marked as "good" for plywood.

Looked through my TS blade collections. Found a 50 tooth blade marked "excellent" for plywood. Tried it - touch of burning. Cleaned dirt on blade - no more burning. (I left the dirt for the test cut simply to see if the dirt was an independent issue.)

Moral right blade, clean blade.

Fence is off a touch - does not appear to affect most cuts.

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

Reply to
Will

================== Major reason to construct a sled using only one miter slot... That is what I have been doing for years ...out of laziness I must admit..

Bob Griffiths

Reply to
Bob G.

DAMHIKT = "Don't Ask Me How I Know That"

I almost started a bon fire once.

I haven't used Oldham's saw blades, but I had a couple of close runins with their router bits and I'm no rookie when it comes to routing.

Chuck

Reply to
Woodchuck34

If you just bought a cabinet saw, I'd call them to get a new top. I don't know acceptable tolerances for miter slots on new tops, but I doubt the slots on even a PM66's are within .0005. Maybe I'm wrong.

I suggest adjusting the trunnions to average the slots out. FYI .0005+.011/2=.00575 But that's because I prefer to use a dual slot cc jig as I expect single slots jigs would deflect. Once again, maybe I'm wrong.

My $.02 less capital gains =$.016 Sam

Reply to
msschmenk

snip

How sharp is the blade? Can you make a grove in your fingernail using the edge of the blade? If not, you'll need to sharpen the blade.

Couldn't be that simple, though.

Thunder

Reply to
Rolling Thunder

Great thread! Thanks for all the great replies. I was just re-reading all the comments and thought I'd make the following comments:

Sadly, it is a new-to-me saw, so there's no warranty.

There is no vibration when the saw is running with any blade. I am using the arbor nut and washer only, I'm not using a blade stiffener.

The blade is sharp and spankin' clean.

Trouble with re-adjusting the blade alignment to average out the error, then cuts using any jig that relies on just one miter slot will suffer from burning or chiping, right?

Would there be any way for me to re-machine the wayward miter slot, or would I have to take the top to a machine-shop? If I have to take it to a shop, what would I be asking for (so I don't sound too stupid)? What sort of cost would I be looking at?

Reply to
Mr Fixit eh

Ok, this is a little embarassing.....

I was curious how the two miter slots could be that much out of alignment on a Delta cabinet saw, so I spent some more 'quality' time with my saw. The miter slots ARE parallel to each other within .002". I used a 4" wide piece of melamine-faced particleboard that fit snugly in the miter slot, checked to make sure the piece was at 90 degrees to the tabletop, then clamped the dial indicator-on-a-stick to the miter gauge. Then I switched sides just as a double-check.

So now I'm really scratching my head. I go back and check the alignment of the blade to the right-side miter slot, and guess what--it is now out of alignment by nearly 0.011". I had run about 30 cuts since I adjusted the blade alignment, and I guess the trunnion has shifted. Either that, or I'm truly going crazy! Now it does make sense that the latest cuts were producing much more burning and starting to see some visible smoke.

So now I'm thinking that it's not the crosscut sled's fault at all, but still the nasty blade alignment.

I wonder if I'll ever get to the point where I'm spending more time cutting than adjusting the saw.

Growl.

Mr Fixit eh

Reply to
Mr Fixit eh

I hope this doesn't double-post. The site seems to be having trouble posting today.

Mr Fixit eh

Mr Fixit eh Feb 8, 9:20 am show options

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking From: "Mr Fixit eh" - Find messages by this author

Date: 8 Feb 2005 09:20:09 -0800 Local: Tues, Feb 8 2005 9:20 am Subject: Re: Grumpy: TS Still Burning Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Remove | Report Abuse

Ok, this is a little embarassing.....

I was curious how the two miter slots could be that much out of alignment on a Delta cabinet saw, so I spent some more 'quality' time with my saw. The miter slots ARE parallel to each other within .002". I used a 4" wide piece of melamine-faced particleboard that fit snugly

in the miter slot, checked to make sure the piece was at 90 degrees to the tabletop, then clamped the dial indicator-on-a-stick to the miter gauge. Then I switched sides just as a double-check.

So now I'm really scratching my head. I go back and check the alignment of the blade to the right-side miter slot, and guess what--it

is now out of alignment by nearly 0.011". I had run about 30 cuts since I adjusted the blade alignment, and I guess the trunnion has shifted. Either that, or I'm truly going crazy! Now it does make sense that the latest cuts were producing much more burning and starting to see some visible smoke.

So now I'm thinking that it's not the crosscut sled's fault at all, but

still the nasty blade alignment.

I wonder if I'll ever get to the point where I'm spending more time cutting than adjusting the saw.

Growl.

Mr Fixit eh

Reply to
Mr Fixit eh

Grumpy,

If the addy is good, I can send you a couple of posts that I made back in

2000 when I had a Delta CS and what I did to fix several problems. Part of the alignment procedures are not in the Delta manuals (at the time) and the rest was from me tweaking things to make the alignment easier. Even though I list specific model numbers - these are generic type procedures that will work as long as your CS has two tie-bars between the front and rear trunnions.

I know few will believe it but after making the minor changes/fixes and following the Delta procedures, I could do a complete alignment in about 15 minutes without resorting to and 2x4's, big hammers or any of those 3rd party Alignment Pals and have it to within 1 thou.

They should also be available by doing a Google in rec.woodworking also. Do a search on:

  1. Delta Blade Alignment Procedures - Contractors saw models 34-444 and
34-445Z
  1. Follow-up to Delta Blade Alignment Procedures

Bob S.

Reply to
BobS

" .... I could do a complete alignment in about 15 minutes without resorting to and 2x4's, big hammers or any of those 3rd party Alignment Pals and have it to within 1 thou."

Just wondering what measurement method you used.

Ray

Reply to
Ray_Manor

I used a TS Aligner Jr.

Bob S.

Reply to
BobS

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