Grr-gripper question

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"Upscale" wrote in message ...

Wel, it was becoming apparent that an attempt to dumb it down to your level was necessary ... obvioulsy even that failed.

It is more likely that you "dismissed it" for lack of comprehension ... provable by your missing the STATED point of the analogy, to wit:
... none of the solutions "change the underlying facts."

No thanks ... the suggested action is much more "apropos", and tailored for you personally, due to the twist you've managed to inject, with the uncalled for snideness in your first post in the thread, into what was heretofore a pleasant little discussion.
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Pleasant until someone disagreed with you. What does that say about your apparently fragile ego that you can't handle a little rebuttal?
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Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
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Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
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You really don't get it. With the gripper YOU can actually control the workpiece and YOU can't do that with a long push stick. (and the splitter is "permanently" installed. You don't reach across the blade to install it as you're ripping.) Robert Smith Andy Dingley wrote:

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Just because it's called a "stick" doesn't mean it has to look like a twig. You can put a base on them that's just as big and controllable as the Grr-Ripper.
The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard as less than ideal for ripping.

Sorry, I worded that badly - I was thinking about separate wedge splitters (which is what I'd have to use if I'd dropped my riving knife off for a cut).
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<<The difference is that the Grr-Ripper is low. So low that I can't fit it past the blade, without dropping the blade to a position I'd regard as less than ideal for ripping.>>
I assume you either have not used a Grr-ripper or the blade on your saw is 12" or larger. As far as I know, the Grr-ripper is designed to completely clear the portion of a 10" blade that extends above the table when fully raised. It's a little late at night to do it now, but tomorrow I will go out into the shop (a/k/a the garage) and confirm this. I will also mount a 12" blade in my old saw and see how close that clearance is. Perhaps I'll even post a photo or two at a-b-p-w.
Lee
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Not sure what the problem is that he's having, but the pictures on the microjig.com website shows that it can easily clear 5" which is well above the maximum height of a 10" blade.
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Upscale wrote:

Huh? Looking at the Microjig site, they claim that the narrow leg is 1/4" wide. Scaling from that the throat depth is about an inch. Now, scaling from an online photo is not the most accurate process in the world, but still there's no way I'm off by a factor of 5 on that.
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Just walked out to the shop and measured the depth of the channle, and there is approx 1in of clearance from the bottom of the green pad and the inside upper edge of the gripper. So, you can have the blade approx 1in above the workpiece and NOT cut the GRRRipper
Gosh, someone who actually owns a GRRRipper is posting on this instead of just trying to guess about this from the pictures on the Gripper website - will wonders never cease <vbg!>
John
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 06:41:19 -0400, "J. Clarke"

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"John" wrote in message

Amazing, ain't it? But you ain't seen nothing yet. Just wait til' the physics majors, or wannabe physic's majors, or those whose great aunts are physic's majors, get going on the various forces acting on the blade and wood during a cut.
It may be time to nuke the thread because it looks like this cow's been milked.
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Is there any acetone on the wood, and is the dust collector's PVC pipe grounded? Those also can be factors.
Barry
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John wrote:

I find it interesting that your measurement comes so close to my "guess".

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<<Just walked out to the shop and measured the depth of the channle, and there is approx 1in of clearance from the bottom of the green pad and the inside upper edge of the gripper. So, you can have the blade approx 1in above the workpiece and NOT cut the GRRRipper
Gosh, someone who actually owns a GRRRipper is posting on this instead of just trying to guess about this from the pictures on the Gripper website - will wonders never cease <vbg!> >>
I just came inside from measuring mine, as well. And I can confirm that there is indeed one inch of clearance between the bottom of the rubber pads and the "bridge." So Andy is correct that you can't raise the blade to full elevation and run the Grr-ripper over it without cutting into it and/or your hand. However, the McGuffin here is that the Grr-ripper does not ride flat on the table; it sits on top of the workpiece. So if you are ripping a 2" thick piece of stock, you can raise the blade to just a hair under 3" and be OK. I can see if someone doesn't want to work that way but it doesn't bother me.
Lee
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Just for the sake of discussion, how much higher than the wood do you raise the blade? My experience with ripping is that the cleanest cuts are ones where the blade is about halfway between the bottom and top of the deepest gullets, with the emphasis on making sure that the carbide tips are above the wood at the top of the rise.
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Andy Dingley says...

Actually, it sits pretty darned high. Looks like you can have a good 2" blade sticking out of the stock before it hits the gadget.
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I bought the full package because that is all they had. I use the basic part frequently, but have never used the rest. YMMV.
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sorry for the multi-post....some reason my computer was real slow and I thought it was not posting......second thing....you can lead a horse to water but you can not make them drink.....stupid is stupid....and some people can not see the forrest because of the woods.....not going to change some hard-headed persons mind...so I won't try...I give up! Don't care if you want to take a chance on cutting all your damn fingers off, just don't do it in my shop...I won't let you Mike
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I bought the full package because that is all they had. I use the basic part frequently, but have never used the rest. YMMV.
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