I just purchased a Grizzly G1023SL table saw and it is all that I expected
and more . The craftsmanshipis flawless. My question is this ....what is
the best substance to treat the surface of the cast iron table to prevent
rust yet not get it on my wood?
>>> My question is this ....what is the best substance to treat the surface
of the cast iron table to prevent rust yet not get it on my wood?<<<
I just put 5 coats of Minwax paste finishing wax (Home Depot) on my new
Craftsman and buffed each coat with an automotive type buffer. I used
Johnson's paste floor wax on my 30 year old Craftsman (table still looks
great) but couldn't find any but the Minwax seems to have done just fine.
I tried just about all of the home remedies on this forum, paste wax, talcum
powder,boeshield,top coat, melted paraffin. I am sure these work very well
on a indoor shop but my saw sits outdoors under a carport. none of these
worked longer than a week to keep the rust away, what finally worked long
term 1st clean the top very very well with steel wool and transmission
fluid to remove any microscopic traces of rust. wash the tranny fluid off
with lacquer thinner and spray a thin even coat of clear lacquer on the top,
once its dry add a coat of past wax on top of this to make it nice and
slick. I have not seen a speck of rust in months
Tom Watson posted a thing here not long ago about his experience. I
have followed suit, and am quite happy. Paint the surface of the
table with shellac. If need be, you can get it off pretty quickly,
and reapply just as quickly. Also, it won't mar the wood, visibly or
otherwise (the parafin shows up when you're applying stain. DAMHIKT.)
No dearth of opinion...here's mine. I have used plain old canning wax
for thirty-five years. Clean the iron surace with denatured alcohol,
run the wax slab over the cast iron, then use a clean piece of steel
wool, working the wax in a circular motion to complete the
application, buff out with clean dry cotton and elbow grease. Once a
week for heavy industrial use, or once a month for regular maintenance
in a home shop. Same process on all your stationary machines. I have
never had wax transfer.
The old boys would have used boiled linseed oil, liberally applied,
dry overnight, then buff dry. Still a good way...
I used Rust Free and Boeshield on my tablesaw which sat on my carport
and never had a problem. You can pick it up at any wood store or
where I got mine, Boatersworld. I haven't had any problems with it
showing up on my projects during finishing. I recommend it.
I have the same saw and see you already have good advise but I've had great
luck with a couple of coats of carnuba car wax but used WD-40 first to
somewhat "impregnate" the metal with a water displacer.
I'm glad you're so happy with yours - I think it's alright, but kind of wish
I'd have held out for a General or a Delta.
Thanks to all with your suggestions on tablesaw top protection.
PS. Anyone out there using a Jet or Delta midi lathe for turning bowls? I
would like to get into bowl turning and was wondering if my skills and
projects would quickly outgrow a "midi". Like the price though...not
everyone can afford a "Stubby"!!
I'll second D. J.'s use of WD40/wax. Every so often I will hit mine
with WD40 and work it in some with a green scotch-brite pad. This
forms a slurry with the wax coat I keep on the saw. I wipe this
slurry off, and reseal with the coat of Johnsons paste wax. Very
quick, easy and cheap. This remedied the rust problem on my dad's saw
(in Illinois) and has keep mine rust-free in New Mexico. This prep
also seems to make it easy to remove the little rust spots that can
spring up when hand prints are left on the saw.
(my 2 cents)
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