Grizzly tablesaw maintainance

To all: I just purchased a Grizzly G1023SL table saw and it is all that I expected and more . The craftsmanshipis flawless. My question is this ....what is the best substance to treat the surface of the cast iron table to prevent rust yet not get it on my wood? Thanks Marc
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Boeshield Top Cote Top Saver Paste wax
Readily available at any good woodworking tool supply house or mailorder from www.leevalley.com
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>>> My question is this ....what is the best substance to treat the surface of the cast iron table to prevent rust yet not get it on my wood?<<<
I just put 5 coats of Minwax paste finishing wax (Home Depot) on my new Craftsman and buffed each coat with an automotive type buffer. I used Johnson's paste floor wax on my 30 year old Craftsman (table still looks great) but couldn't find any but the Minwax seems to have done just fine. RM~
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I tried just about all of the home remedies on this forum, paste wax, talcum powder,boeshield,top coat, melted paraffin. I am sure these work very well on a indoor shop but my saw sits outdoors under a carport. none of these worked longer than a week to keep the rust away, what finally worked long term 1st clean the top very very well with steel wool and transmission fluid to remove any microscopic traces of rust. wash the tranny fluid off with lacquer thinner and spray a thin even coat of clear lacquer on the top, once its dry add a coat of past wax on top of this to make it nice and slick. I have not seen a speck of rust in months

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Snip what is

Tom Watson posted a thing here not long ago about his experience. I have followed suit, and am quite happy. Paint the surface of the table with shellac. If need be, you can get it off pretty quickly, and reapply just as quickly. Also, it won't mar the wood, visibly or otherwise (the parafin shows up when you're applying stain. DAMHIKT.)
-Phil Crow
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No dearth of opinion...here's mine. I have used plain old canning wax for thirty-five years. Clean the iron surace with denatured alcohol, run the wax slab over the cast iron, then use a clean piece of steel wool, working the wax in a circular motion to complete the application, buff out with clean dry cotton and elbow grease. Once a week for heavy industrial use, or once a month for regular maintenance in a home shop. Same process on all your stationary machines. I have never had wax transfer. The old boys would have used boiled linseed oil, liberally applied, dry overnight, then buff dry. Still a good way...
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I used Rust Free and Boeshield on my tablesaw which sat on my carport and never had a problem. You can pick it up at any wood store or where I got mine, Boatersworld. I haven't had any problems with it showing up on my projects during finishing. I recommend it.
Rob

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I have the same saw and see you already have good advise but I've had great luck with a couple of coats of carnuba car wax but used WD-40 first to somewhat "impregnate" the metal with a water displacer.
I'm glad you're so happy with yours - I think it's alright, but kind of wish I'd have held out for a General or a Delta.
Don

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Thanks to all with your suggestions on tablesaw top protection. Happy woodworking. Marc PS. Anyone out there using a Jet or Delta midi lathe for turning bowls? I would like to get into bowl turning and was wondering if my skills and projects would quickly outgrow a "midi". Like the price though...not everyone can afford a "Stubby"!!

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I'll second D. J.'s use of WD40/wax. Every so often I will hit mine with WD40 and work it in some with a green scotch-brite pad. This forms a slurry with the wax coat I keep on the saw. I wipe this slurry off, and reseal with the coat of Johnsons paste wax. Very quick, easy and cheap. This remedied the rust problem on my dad's saw (in Illinois) and has keep mine rust-free in New Mexico. This prep also seems to make it easy to remove the little rust spots that can spring up when hand prints are left on the saw.
(my 2 cents)
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