Grizzly G0555 vs G1148

I'm looking for a 14" bandsaw and have read a lot of good (great even) reviews about both of these saws.
I have (and have read) Grizzly's spec sheets on both these saws.
However, beyond the basics/specs how do they compare. -noise -vibration -ease of blade replacement -availability/selection of new blades -quality of fence -ability to resaw 6-8" hw (oak & cherry) -amount of actual dust collected
Many ThankX Ron
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Can only tell you my experience with the G0555. I didn't really care for it at first until I changed out the roller bearing guides with the basic block system - after that, I have a whole new respect.
Noise: Is pretty quiet - about the same as a friends Delta and quiter than a friends Jet 16". Not overly fair comparison on the Jet becuase it's a bigger saw.
Vibration: Inconsequential and have noticed none.
Ease of blade replacement: As a standard saw - you can get 93 1/2 blades anywhere - if you put the riser on, only wood specialty stores would have them (105") on hand or you need to order them. I got them all at once and am getting along fine.
Availablity of new blades - I haven't had trouble finding anything I was looking for. I use everyting from 1/8th to 3/4 in many different variations.
Quality of fence: I don't use the fence much but when I do, I find it adequate - nothing great.
Ability to resaw - even with the riser, I haven't had any issue but the most I've tried a 10" of oak - I had to go a little slow but it did fine and the motor did not bog down.
Amount of dust collected: I have the small 1hp Delta and hook it up to the port on the saw. When done cutting - even resawing, there is nothing in the lower cabinet. The only thing I have to clean up is what was left on the top of the table and that is to be expected.
Hope this helps.
Don

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I am beginning to feel if I replace the bearing guide on my G0555 with basic block, it might also reduce the noise and maybe get a smoother cut.
BTW, where did you buy your block system and how much you pay for them? Any trouble encounter when installing the block?
Thank you.

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No, I bought them from Grizzly - it's the ones that were on the G019 saw and I think both were about $5.00. I see they have now replaced that saw with a little brother of the G0555 and it looks to have blocks. Should be an easy switch - it was for me. You're right, the noise went way down and since I use 1/2" oak dowels as blocks, I don't worry about setting them just shy of the gullets on the blade - I pinch it and let the saw blade make it's own curf. It's more stable, more supported and as I said, quiter as a result. To be honest, I did not like the saw with the bearings - they were way to difficult to get to, let alone adjust with that eccentric system and it was so noisy, it seems tha something was set wrong. I also had to be very careful about where the gullet was in relationship to the blade and I probably ruined a couple of blades. Had I not been able to get a block system for it, I'd have probably gotten rid of it by now.
Don


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I make all the mistakes you mentioned below, I too am convince that something must be done if I am to enjoy the BS. Thanks for your honest assessment.
I called Grizzly about a month ago, they told me bearing guides are better than guide blocks. Not only they convinced me to keep the bearing guides but didn't tell me if they have guide blocks.
Do you have any problems removing and installing the guide blocks? BTW, I just went to Grizzly site and they have increased the price of G0555.

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I wish I rememberd the part numbers - but they were inexpensive ( I think around $10 for both) and had the tech told me about the merits of the bearing system, I would have politely asked him for the part numbers anyway and thanked him for his/her concern. If you would like, send me an email and I can take a digital picture of the yokes of the different systems.
The guide blocks took about 10 minutes to switch out. You simply remove the hex nuts that hold the adjustment knobs and turn them until the bearing block (yoke) comes out. Replace with the block guides. BTW - if anyone is interested in a set of bearing guides and the yokes that hold them ($39 from Griz), I'd sell them for $15 shipped to anywhere in the U.S.
Don

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Quoting from an email that Don sent me a while back:
The part numbers you need are:
P1019005A Block Holder - $2.50 each - requires 2
You'll also need the 4 set screws to hold the blocks in place. They take 1/2" blocks.
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

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Wow, you keep better records than I do - I'm very impressed. Did you switch yours out and if so, are you happier with the saw or did you switch back to your bearing guides?
Don
wrote:

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Yes, and I made blocks from cocobolo. So far I like them better, less adjusting. But so far I've only used 1/2" and 1/4" blades.
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.

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wrote:
Thanks you (and Dorm), for the P/N below, I'll call Grizzly if they still carry the parts. I presume you need one for the top and another for the lower guide.

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Hi Dorn,
Last week, I got my P1019005A Block Holder from Grizzly and they're still $2.50 each. You might be interested to know that Woodcraft is having sales on their Olson 1/2" cool guide blocks (Woodcraft's P/N 49H02) for $10.10. I bought two sets and hope to test it with Olson Pro bandsaw blades. Thanks, appreciate your help.

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Thankx Don, this is a help, especially the tip about roller bearing guides. That't the kind of info I was looking for.
One more question.. Which resaw blades have you had the best luck with and do the boards usually requiring planing/surfacing afterwards.
ThankX again, Ron

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I have used 3/4 blades with no trouble even though some argue that 1/2 is the biggest you should actually use on a 14" saw. I do have a 1/2 and it works well too but I like the 3/4 better. Yes, the boards would need to be planed if you are preparing them for a project. The truth is that any 93 1/2 or 105" blade with even 3 tpi has at least 280 teeth - you can't compare that to a far more expensive and stiffer tablesaw blade with 40 quality carbide teeth. That said, I have found that the result is smooth and doesn't take much planning and that the difference in width front to back of the fresh cut piece is inconsequential. I highly recommend the bandsaw book by Mark Duginski - it enabled me to take a occasional tool to one of the most used in my shop.
Don

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I echo all that the previous poster wrote. I don't have much to compare it too, but the 0555 seems an excellent machine for the money. When I compare it to others on the market, it seems you are often paying more for a machine that just doesn't seem as nice. Very quiet, powerful (though I don't have risers on mine). Easy to adjust, change blades, etc. The fence, I agree, is only descent at best (it looks better in the pictures than it operates in reality). Sorry, I can't comment on the other saw in question. Good Luck, Doug
Ron wrote:

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