Gripper?

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I would be happy to pay 6% extra for the saw stop function.
I would not buy the saw stop company saw because of the features it is lacking.
I want at minnimum a 12" blade, and at least 5 HP motor.
Also, my school is wired with 208 voltage. If the saw motor is not wound for 208 instead of 230, you get a motor that does not put out rated power and overheats pretty fast, because it runs drawing many more amps that it is supposed to. Not good for those projects where students are waiting in a line to use the table saw. Constant use with the wrong voltage motor will cause the thermal protection to trip at the drop of a hat.
--
Jim in NC



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"Morgans" wrote:

----------------------------------- NBD.
Todays motors are usually wired to handle 208V.
If not, a simple buck-boost transformer solves the problem.
Lew
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Humm. I have to respectfully disagree. Ever put a meter on a saw in operation, to see how much it draws while under heavy load? I put one on a 230 volt motor running on 208 and was amazed. Amazed that a motor could draw that much over specs, for one.

More cost and something else for students to tear up. Much better to get the right motor to start with.
--
Jim in NC



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"Morgans" wrote:

-------------------------------- Improper installation is not my problem.
BTW, if motor was overloaded, where was the overload relay to handle the problem?
It's a standard part of a motor starter.
--------------------------------

----------------------------------- Do you serve that potted buck-boost transformer with or without WD40 on the side for the students?<G> ---------------------

---------------------- Check your motor supplier.
Lew
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Your school doesn't have 3 phase voltage to the shop?
On 8/17/2010 7:12 PM, Morgans wrote:

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"tiredofspam" wrote:

---------- 208Y/120 is 3 phase.
Lew
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"tiredofspam" <nospam.nospam.com> wrote

Good point.
Yes, it does, but there is a problem putting more 3 phase machines in place because of: 1) lack of space in the wire pull trough installed underneath the concrete. (slab on grade) 2) even more of a problem is the lack of space in the breaker panel for another 3 phase breaker. 3) lack of money for schools to spend on adding more panels or more wire pull space or otherwise updating electrical service. I am lucky to get enough money for an occasional new piece of machinery and other needed supplies for the shop.
The school district was ripped off by the contractor when the school was built. That and the inpecting of the work done and acceptance inspecting blew it. I am told that when they moved in to the school, they plugged a piece of equipment in, and found it would not turn on. They went to the breaker panel to check if the breaker had not been turned on, or was tripped off. They opened the panel cover door, and found that there were no breakers or wire installed from the panel to the saw stations. The contractor was already paid and gone, and they never went after them to complete the work. Perhaps that was how the work was speced. I don't know.
--
Jim in NC



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That's only true if a competitor doesn't have that cost.
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"tiredofspam" <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in message

The saw has been on the market at least 4-5 years, probably closer to 6.

Still being demoed to the manufactureres did not mean that you could not ask questions.
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Leon wrote:

Sounds like a winner... Sounded pretty good before. My next saw will probably be a sawstop or similar. My saw is barely broke in though, it's only about 56 years old and should have that much left in her... I did look at a saw stop a few years ago and it looks great, Over priced perhaps, but still looked like a nice saw, even w/o the saw stop stuff. If I were buying a new saw, I'd probably buy one so my kid wouldn't cut off an arm after he inherits my tools... and, the older I get, the more dangerous I get!
--
Jack
Don't worry about your health... It'll go away!
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Perhaps we have less time to suffer from the injury so the safety aspect becomes less paramount??
I remember a time people fought seat belts in the cars but, after having them forced on us, they became "second nature". Now we feel insecure without one on. All about habits.
... and, the older I get, the more dangerous I get!
--
Jack
Don't worry about your health... It'll go away!
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Lemme see.... 114. Nope, I don't think that'll be a good time to replace my saw. ;-)

As I've said, I just bought a Unisaur last year. I looked at the SawStop but there was no way I was going to spend that sort of money. Perhaps in ten years, when the patent runs out (guessing by the dates thrown around here), I'll buy a new saw with the SawStop feature.
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Might be a good plan, to wait..... But this guy being a patent attourney... He may pull the same thing that DuPond did with Freon 12. their patent ran out and they lobbied to out law the old Freon 12 in favor for their new freon that would not harme the ozone.
The current SawStop may be too "flawed" compared to the new 2020 model. LOL
So safe is the new automotive freon that they want all freon to be evacuated, captured, and reused instead of exposing the mechanics to the gas...... Toungue in cheek.
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On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 18:25:52 -0500, Leon wrote:

OTOH, there is an override switch for use if you're cutting really green wood. I'm still waiting for an accident report where someone forgot they'd used that switch and left it in override.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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On 8/16/2010 2:11 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

The override resets when you turn the motor off, so there's no way to leave it in override.
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On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 16:38:56 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Thanks - that's good to know. I *should* have known it, since I used to work for Woodcraft - must be my senility showing :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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Yep. I just used one today and had that issue. Saw wouldn't start until I cleaned it off - dust everywhere cuz it's on a jobsite with no DC. Blew it off, restarted it and it worked fine. There are two switches - one for the stop mech and one for the blade spin. Nice saw. Well built. Pricey though.
JP
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On 8/15/2010 12:55 PM, Leon wrote:

"By the book" you're supposed to rip it with the wide piece between the fence and the blade and move the fence for every cut or use the off-cut as a spacer rather than just setting the fence and cutting. Here's a video (not mine--it's amazing what you can find by searching youtube) showing the "safe" way to rip 1/8" widths: <
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM

Extra credit: What safety rules does _he_ violate in that video?

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wrote:

Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.
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Yeah. A simple DPDT switch to dynamically brake that blade would make that long blafe wind-down wait much shorter and probably more done (waited) by more users.
Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.
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