Depends on what you're doing. If you've got a production job to run then a few minutes setup time can cut the recurring way down.
In a school setting where you _must_ use an OSHA approved guard how do you teach how to use jigs and fixtures that won't work with the guard, or do you just not do that?
The only thing that will prevent accidents "after the cut" is a Sawstop and it won't prevent all of them.
"J. Clarke" wrote
No doubt on that account. If I have to do more that 6 or so parts, or they have to be to a very high degree of identical precision, I am first to jig up somehow. I take pride in that fact.
I design jigs and fixtures that will work with OSHA approved guards, 98 percent of the time. Occasionally I switch out the splitter/ overhead plastic blade guard to a suspended guard for the cuts that do not penetrate all of the way through. I have a 12" 5 HP saw that will go through in one cut most of the time, unless it is a cut that is not supposed to go all of the way through.
Many (most) cuts that are not rip type operations using the rip fence are done on the radial arm saws, or power miter saws, or something else. That eliminates many types of operations that are difficult to perform/jig on the table saw. I have another table saw that lives with a dado blade (most of the time) and a suspended guard. That also helps it to be practical to use OSHA guards on the primary table saw.
My remaining 2 percent operations I do use with homemade guards and jigs, but the blade is never left unguarded for an operation that the students will be performing at any time-before during or after the cut. If there is something that has to be done for a quick operation that is not practical or possible to guard, I make it as safe as possible, and perform the cut myself. I do emphasise that I still demonstrate a safe operation, and use imaginative solutions in making it possible to fully guard the blade. Even though it may not be a commercially produced guard, it still will meet the spirit of the OSHA regulation.
Does all of this slow down operations in the shop? Believe it or not, I think only slightly. I have gotten so used to using all of the guards as they are and using guards and proceedures that I have developed, I have a supply of jigs and guards that make extra setup and use time pretty minimal.
From my viewing of the Sawstop machine, I disagree. Other than a nick that does not require more than a band-aid, or a broken Sawstop machine, that is the best sure-fire prevention of serious injury I have ever seen. I wish it was available in a 12 inch blade, and a higher HP motor, and did not cost several arms and legs to purchase. ;-)
Won't stop thrown-object injuries, just hand-in-blade injuries.
Most of the push blocks I have I push to the side, or push forward. With the Gr-r-ripper, I can push straight down, and feel very comfortable doing this.
Yes, I could make lots of push blocks with slits and holes, but it's easy to just shift the middle pieces to the left or right to match the cut I am doing.
Set up can be complicated if you want to use all the different configurations. But for 99% of my common cuts it takes me about 5-6 seconds to get the proper adjustement for material thickness and width. Before I actually used these things I felt the same way you do. Then I saw them demoed at a ww show, took them home, and set most all of my home made sticks and pushers, and hold downs aside.
That is correct in some instances. Will your guard set up properly, when ripping stock to 1/8" widths, or when cutting dado's?
It is certainly not a fool proof safety device. But it is the best of its kind if you are one of the majority of users that do not use the typical blade guard.
I a school setting I see your point, might also want to consider upgrading to a SawStop because as you have witnessed sooner or later the blade is going to get you given enough time. My injury was also after the cut and after the saw was turned off. SawStop would have prevented my injury.
I can assure you from personal experience that if you can afford several arms and legs to buy a SawStop that the first time it performs it's safety function it has many times over more than paid for itself condisering medical costs, loss of personal function, and or personal liability if some one else is injured.
Agreed. Universal truth, in "New Math" context:
Ignorance = It - what you don't know about It
Leon wrote: My injury was also after the cut and
Not sure, but my guess is after the saw is turned off, saw stop will no longer work?
Ignorance = IT - what you KNOW about IT
...but I actually liked "new math". ;-)
Nope, that's "math". :)
"By the book" you're supposed to rip it with the wide piece between the fence and the blade and move the fence for every cut or use the off-cut as a spacer rather than just setting the fence and cutting. Here's a video (not mine--it's amazing what you can find by searching youtube) showing the "safe" way to rip 1/8" widths:
Extra credit: What safety rules does _he_ violate in that video?
Not sure if this is your point but he likes to reach around the blade as its winding down. I've seen that it a few of his videos.
Yeah. A simple DPDT switch to dynamically brake that blade would make that long blafe wind-down wait much shorter and probably more done (waited) by more users.
Nope, I confirmed this about 8 years ago. Turning the SawStop motor off does not turn off its ability to dectct flesh while the blade is still spinning. Until the blade stops spinning the brake works as it would when cutting wood.
IIRC there are 2 switches, the main that powers the safety device and also powers the switch to turn the saw on. Also IIRC the system has to power up so to speak before you can turn the saw on. If during the initial power up a fault is detected you can not turn the saw on.
From Sawatop web site at:
1
(get it?)
RE: Edge Banding (1/8"-1/4" x 3/4" strips)
Set up the fence, adjust blade to 1/4" max exposure, remove splitter and anti kick back pawls and use a push block at least 3/4" wide x
5"-6" high which is a sacrifical.Remember the cut is not complete until the push block clears the bak of the table.
Yes, a runout table is required.
NEVER reach over the saw blade to retrieve stock for the next cut.
Walk around.
Works for me.
YMMV
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" wrote
Probably a safe way to do the job, but....
You would not want to be the guy paying the OSHA fine, if that were to come to pass in this shop.
I'm just saying.....
-------------------------------------- Interesting.
The community college course I just completed limited had a very explicit use of a radial arm saw which was at least a 12" beast.
The ONLY approved use of a RAS was to cut rough lumber to approximate length.
When asked why, the instructor said, Sears & Roebuck oversold the (safe) capabilities of the RAS many years ago.
Want an argument?
Change the subject.
Lew
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.