I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak plywood
without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this purpose,
but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade, so I
know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the Freud
F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for about
Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to justify
such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the blades I
mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd appreciate
the input. Thanks.
There are some "standard" responses which do not involve purchasing a new
First, consider scoring the line of cut with your utility knife. Make sure
it's on the "good" side of the cut.
Make a scoring cut with the blade at 1/16 depth prior to the through cut.
Tape the line of cut so it doesn't split too badly.
These assume you are speaking of tearing on the insert side (as the teeth
If you're getting pickup on top, your problem could be blade non-parallel to
miter groove, miter gage not at 90, or creep against the miter gage.
Practice these techniques on luan, which is cheaper and even more prone to
splinter than oak.
Buying a new blade will give you pride of purchase, and might make a better
line, but will take money.
On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 07:00:42 -0500, "George"
George posted the standard solutions...
Your 80 tooth blade should be fine....most chipping occurs as the
blade exits the cut...so try to have the good surface pointing up when
you make the cut....
Of Georges methods I like
and takes time raising and lowering the blade...
This is fast and masking tape is CHEAP....
If he is getting tear out on top (as the blade enters the cut)...you
are right OR he has the blade set way way to low...
ON "GOOD" and expensive veneer I will use tape 199 percent of the
time... one hundred and ninty percent equals all the time btw
On 02 Feb 2004 03:57:33 GMT, email@example.comAntiSpam (NoNameAtAll)
You really need to make a scoring pass if you don't want to gamble.
If your saw has good smooth height adjustment gears, it should only
take a couple of seconds to crank up from your scoring pass to nearly
full height for your final pass. The only ptoblem is that you'll have
to wave your splitter dismounted for the scoring pass. A bummer but
not a big deal if you're doing lots of them.
Better yet, for crosscuts less than 12", use a SCMS. The scoring pass
with an SCMS takes just a split second, and it's easy to do by hand
without a depth stop. Plus, you can keep a good dedicated crosscut
blade mounted, which helps too (you'll still need the scoring pass for
Have you tried scoring the ply before cutting? That's a technique I've
been told can help avoid tearing of the veneer. I think you would just
score the cut with a 1/6th in. depth pass then flip the board, raise the
blade and do the finish cut for the whole board.
"The measure of a man is what he will do
No, you do not flip the board. You make both the scoring pass and the
final pass with the same side down. I do this all the time, it is
easy and it works great.
The down side is the place where tearout happens on a tablesaw,
as the teeth exit the wood at the front of the cut. If you're really
getting tearout on the up side, your saw blade is not parallel to the
fence and you're getting the tearout at the back of the cut as the
blade rises out of the saw. If this is your problem you need to tune
your saw, a scoring pass will not help this problem.
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