I'm finishing my first project working with cherry and would like some
opinions regarding a good/nice finish. I have no experience with
finishing wood and really need to know a good process.
I'd like to have a high gloss finish. I've used a clear shellac on
another table and it looked really nice.
How busy is the table?
Wipe-on Poly or homebrew thinned poly will give good protection from the
common stuff. Use the gloss, which is tougher than satin, and transparent.
If you're a real shine lover, hard wax, else soft will take the edge off,
while maintaining a look into the wood transparency.
Otherwise, shellac will certainly do, and can be buffed to a real gloss if
you care to. More vulnerable to certain things, but easily repaired.
Blonde shellac looks great on Cherry. But being a table, note that shellac
doesn't like water (like condensation from a glass), heat, alkalyne liquids, or
alchohol. But it is easy to repair, and rubs out nice.
I've used Minwax Antique Oil finish on several cherry projects. It's
a wipe on/wipe off mixture of linseed oil and varnish. Two coats
gives a nice satin finish and additional coats can be "built-up" and
rubbed with 0000 steel wool to give a high gloss. The cherry cradle on
my web site has about 10 coats:
I've never used Waterlox high gloss but their satin builds nicely. The
sealer/finish doesn't build much at all but is thin enough to
I re-finished my maple floors with two coats of sealer/finish followed
by two coats of satin --- after two years there are a few scuffs but
it is holding up well under the strain of two boys and a golden
retriever. I'm planning on at least patching the scuffed areas this
fall. The floor is about 85 years old, about 10% of the boards have
birds-eyes, 20% tiger stripes. Waterlox really made the birds-eye
If your project weren't a flat spot with probable water issues, my
knee jerk reaction would be a few coats of Danish oil with a nice wax
On 1 Jul 2004 07:13:33 -0700, email@example.com (hex)
I use the original now (cheaper, more clear) and degloss/paste wax
the last coat.
Yeah, that's the tung and linseed oils working. I've found the
tung + varnish an extremely hard finish, too. And OH so much
easier to touch up than polyurinestain.
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Ackshally, unlike RBS & Radio Alarm Saw, polyurinestain is not a LJ
original. Google reveals that the first use of polyurinestain (at
least spelled that way) goes back to 1997 by the late and highly
esteemed Paully Rad:
Tom Perigrin was apparently the first to use "polyurine" back in 1994:
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Something I tried that came out great: boiled linseed oil, followed
by about six coats of Waterlox. The linseed oil brings out the beauty
of cherry, and the Waterlox made a hard, glossy finish. I learned
this technique at my local Woodcraft store. I used it on some cherry
furniture that's not quite antique, but that had sentimental value in
my family. All who have seen it were impressed with the result. Hope
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