good deal Quick-change drill/countersink

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i did not know these existed but it is a good idea
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?ps226&cat=1,44047&ap=2
price seems reasonable too
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On 12/14/15 4:14 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

Punctuation?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 12/14/2015 5:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Well, you edited them out, but I saw correct use of a colon, a comma, a question mark and three periods.
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It's a good thing he doesn't come from a Commodore 64 background, where they eliminated spaces to save memory!
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 15 Dec 2015 01:12:08 GMT, Puckdropper

He'd probably delete all the '0's because they're of no value either.

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On 12/14/2015 5:14 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

I have a large set of those. They were made for Craftsman. I like them, but I would prefer to just have 2 drills , one with a drill/countersink, the other with a screw bit.
But they are nice.
--
Jeff

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On 12/14/15 6:31 PM, woodchucker wrote:

I have a couple sets of those and will still use them for hardwood. Honestly, I haven't picked them up since I started using screws with self-drilling tips and countersinking heads.
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On Mon, 14 Dec 2015 19:31:40 -0500

now i will have to check the craftsman price i like it because it is one tool and no need to go looking for the other when i need it and it has the quick change
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On 12/15/2015 12:01 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

I don't see the full kit that I have anymore. I bought it for $15 at a garage sale. Looked untouched. I'll post a pic soon.
--
Jeff

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It's hard to tell from the picture on the webpage, but those don't appear to have tapered drills. If they don't, then they're essentially useless.
If you really want a set of drill/countersink bits, get a set of Fullers (no quickchange there, but at least they'll work the way they're susposed to).
John
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On Tue, 15 Dec 2015 02:13:18 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy

With today's screws, why do you need tapered bits? They're available if you can find screws to go with them, though.
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On 12/14/2015 8:28 PM, krw wrote:

You really do not need tapered drills for today's screws BUT !!!
Tapered drill bits compared to standard twist drill bits, at least for me, are much easier to start precisely where I want and I don't have any issue with bit wander at the beginning of the drilling. The pointed end tends to stay where you put it.
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On 12/14/2015 9:13 PM, John McCoy wrote:

John, they are useful, you are assuming that we are still using old Wood screws. I don't use them much anymore. Most everything available now out classes those. They don't split the wood as easily, because there is no taper, they have deep threads, and cut like razors.
I have a set of tapered drills, and I haven't used them in 15-20 years.
--
Jeff

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On 12/14/15 8:13 PM, John McCoy wrote:

I'm sure I won't be the first to point out that tapered drill bits are for tapered screws. I don't think you can even find a tapered screw in most regular hardware stores anymore.
--

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Well that's just not so. The idea behind a tapered drill like the Fullers is to drill a pilot hole (the tapered part) followed by a clearance hole. And I don't care what sort of screw you use, if you're doing quality work you only want the threads engaged in the lower of the parts you're joining.
This Lee Valley set doesn't appear to drill a clearance hole in the upper part - and thus it's only useful for quick and dirty work, not for anything intended to be permanent.
John
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On 12/15/2015 11:52 AM, John McCoy wrote:

FWIW these are the ones I use and they are significantly less expensive than the Fuller. They seem to still drill as well as when they were new several years ago.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)50215143&sr=8-10&keywords=taper+drills
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On 12/15/2015 3:36 PM, Leon wrote:

Woops!!! Sorry, I use the Snappy brand, not the Insty brand. Still inexpensive by comparison.
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On Tue, 15 Dec 2015 17:52:49 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy

Tapered? I thought you'd want a step for that purpose. I'm with -MIKE-, tapered drills are for tapered screws.

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On 12/15/15 11:52 AM, John McCoy wrote:

Yes it is.

I don't know anything about that particular brand. I was addressing tapered bit specifically.

Yes and no. Newer, designed, screws have a different set of threads at the top that will shear out a section of wood wider than the threads at the top of the screw to keep the screw from "jacking up" the board being held down.

Well, that's just a blanket statement for which I have to call BS. I've drivel thousands of holes using that same design and believe me, every screw was permanent. We develop different techniques for different materials we are using. Softer woods don't need a "clearance hole" because the upper threads will simply strip out the wood in the board being fastened. And in hardwoods where you don't have a "clearance hole" I find it faster to simply let the screws "jack up" the hardwood material being fastened until enough threads have engaged in the material to which the hardwood is being attached, then simply back out the screw until the board that is jacked-up drops back down flush, then drive home the screw.
I will on occasion drill out a clearance hole, but your statement is painting with too broad of a brush.
--

-MIKE-

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On Monday, December 14, 2015 at 2:16:32 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:

Yep, I've got an Hitachi version of that, from maybe a decade back. It gets lots of use.
I've got a microset countersink tool that came from an old Boeing Surplus bin, that's extremely handy, too. Countersinking really greatly helps with traditional woodscrews, but most available screws are odd bugle-head shapes now. :-(
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