Gluing metal to metal?

I've got a Noxon punch/nail set that has broken. The last inch or so of the tool is a separate piece that gets glued on. (Probably be better if it were all one piece, but more $$$ too.)

IAE, I actually really like the tool and I want to repair it. Does anyone here know of an adhesive that might work?

I've emailed Noxon for the adhesive they use, and have also asked if I could mail it back for repair. Further bulletins as events warrant.

JP

Reply to
Jay Pique
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Try some JB Weld. If that won't hold it, there's not much that will. Great stuff!

Reply to
Tom Banes

Yup.. that stuff will glue a fart to a thought.

Reply to
Robatoy

These guys are both right, although the second is much funnier!

Jim Stuyck

Reply to
Jim Stuyck

Epoxy

John

Reply to
john

The most obvious is either welding or brazing.

After that, JB Weld is touted as doing a good job.

Normal epoxy, even epoxy thickened with microballoons probably won't do the job, but it would be next IMHO.

Whatever you do, abrade the surfaces as much as possible.

I'd probably try a 24 grit disk on a right angle disk sander.

Have fun.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

According to JB Weld, the slow set is twice as strong as the 4 minute Quick set. WW

Reply to
Warren Weber

A nail set? Last I saw, they're only like $2 at the hardware store for an all steel version. Perhaps I'm thinking of something else, but if that's the tool, I can't imagine it would cost less to repair it than it would to just buy a new one.

Reply to
Prometheus

Goddam that's funny!!

Reply to
wood_newbie

Warren Weber wrote: (snip)

My experience confirms that. Plus, the JB Qwick has a drastically reduced work time. Ignore the instructions regarding the setting time. Always let it set overnight if not 24 hours. I use this stuff alot for a very specific purpose (details below)and it never holds well unless I let it cure overnight.

The adhesive quality of this stuff is pretty amazing. I use a very high-end water ski which has many wonderful properties, but the ability to hold screws (for the bindings) is NOT one of those properties. The damn things work loose and eventually strip out. Then we install an insert which suffers the same problem, leaving a hole that you can just about stick your finger into.

Before trashing a $900 ski (yes, you are reading this correctly), I filled the hole with JB-Weld, let it set overnight and redrilled. The result is much stonger than the ski material itself and lasts longer.

In one extreme situation, the front two screws pulled out in a crash, resulting in a huge amount of force pulling on the remaining screws, one of which was in a hole repaired with JB-Weld. In this case, the "plug" of JB-Weld actually broke, half of it sticking in the ski, and half held by the screw, but not before bending the .063" thick steel mounting plate to a 45 degree angle. That's testimony to its adhesive properties as well as it's hardness. If all four holes had been repaired, this never would have happened.

Give it a try.

Tom

Reply to
tom_murphy

Cotronics 954

Reply to
Badger

If I work at about 4000degrees I might go with it!

JB Weld claims much higher strength at low temperatures. (For the 2 part product.)

JP

****************** I *do* sweat a lot.
Reply to
Jay Pique

I have used 2 part epoxy in the past. Surfaces need to be clean of grease (I use acetone) and slightly roughened with sandpaper.

A product called JB Weld is meant to be a "cold weld" for metal. Many folks swear by this. Cheap enough to try.

Success will depend on surface area of the joint and how much stress is applied during use.

Dave Paine.

Reply to
Tyke

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