Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I've used Gorilla Glue with such situations. Working time is at least
30 minutes. If you use JUST A LITTLE, and spritz the surfaces with water, I have had little trouble with ooze issue.I also clamp or tack/nail joints, or they will open up, for me at least.
Try a scrap piece first to get the hang of it. I have had the best results when I can do glue/nail joints.
Again, be VERY sparing with the glue. I put on a fine bead, or even a few drops, then use a knife blade, etc., to spread it out, and NOT to the edge of the work. I am not depending on the glue to do any sort of filling. If I have that situation, then I go to an epoxy.
You didn't say what kind of wood you have, but my experience with Gorilla glue is that it works nicely with such things a walnut and cherry, as of course, pine, spruce, etc.
I'm using plywood, sanded fir, 7 ply, no voids. Pretty fair quality, considering it's from HD
Have you considered Titebond Extend? Gives you about 3 times the working time of regular Titebond.
Check the open time for hide glue
"real" hide glue heated to 140 degrees has less than a minute on heated wood and 30 seconds on cold wood. The stuff in the bottle is really not worth using IMO It has a very critical shelf life from what I have heard.
sw
Cut to the chase, use the good stuff.
Epoxy
West Systems has slow hardner that will give you at least an hour of pot time.
Screw the Gorilla glue. IMHO, it's garbage.
Lew
Yes, epoxy is the way to go.
And, in my opinion, polyurethane glues have absolutely no use in making fine furniture or cabinets. It is a real pain-in-the-ass to clean up the ooze out, and if you have any gap at all in the joint the expanded polyurethane has zero strength. Polyurethane glue is a solution looking for a problem, because there are much better alternative adhesives.
Mort
Lew Hodgett wrote:
I've used the liquid stuff for several projects over the years. I've never had any trouble, but I checked the date on the container before buying. If it's less than a year old it works fine. And yes, it has a long open time.
The "real" stuff does "tack up" pretty quick, but it'll still grip for a few minutes or more. I haven't done it yet, but urea (try a garden center) will keep it usable longer. I don't remember the porportions. Do a Google.
This is a glue sold by GW, "slo-set" white glue for wood, currently on closeout. I bought some for an upcoming project, but I have not tried it yet. Decent price.
This might help. When I have a lot of joints to glue up sometimes I can leave one side dry, glue only one side, and clamp the assembly. The next day I glue up the other side.
I'm curious. How much time do I have with regular Titebond? I was gluing something up recently and I wanted to avoid squeeze-out as much as possible. I ran a line of glue around the 9' or so of the project, stopping at intervals to spread it across the width of the 3/4" plywood with a brush. Then I applied 14 clamps. I'm pretty sure that I was still within the window, but I realized that I didn't really know what the window was.
Greg Guarino
Titebond III is about 10 minutes. The Titebond liquid "hide" glue is similar. Either are much slower than standard white PVA glue which can be almost "instant" for tight joints in porous woods. Titebond I & II are about 5 minutes. If you are looking for something much slower for laminating or something similar try:
Officially they say 5 minutes open time for regular, 10 for Titebond III, 15 for Extend. My gut tells me that those are conservative, but I've never timed gluing.
Absolutely agree. I've been using West Systems epoxy for years, and it will be perfect for what the OP wants.
Note to Rick: you won't find West at HD. Look for a boating/marine supply store. Those places usually have it in stock.
As does Woodcraft.
--=20 It's turtles, all the way down
And Rockler.
As does Woodcraft.
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