Glue Squeeze out Video (FWW Video)

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FYI. Freebie glue squeeze out video (FWW). Pretty good idea, but I'm usually too stressed out during a glue up to do this.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id )736
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Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com
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http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id )736
Nice little trick. I'll have to remember that one.
And thanks for the trip back down memory lane, stressing during glue up. LOL... Through the years wood working becomes less stressful as you learn the tricks like the one you posted for us. I do vividly recall having every one ready for the "glue up" and for me it was like brain surgery. Today not so much of a problem.
For probably 20 years I used a water saturated paper towel to remove the excess, followed by the normal finish sanding. I gotta say I cannot remember a time that wiping with a wet rag ever presented a problem and I built a lot of furniture out of Red Oak. I can certainly agree that this method can present problems if you are not thorough.
Anyway if you are stressing because of the glue open time, consider using an old glue that you mix. Very simple and you have more than enough time to assemble anything with that glue. The only real draw back is that you need to leave the clamps on at least over night. IIRC WeldWood is the name of the glue. I comes in a powder form and you simply mix in water.
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I saw the article in FWW - and couldn't understand going through all that careful glue application - brushes, careful application of just the right amount of glue - and that doesn't eliminate the problem of glue squeeze out clean up and the problems even a little glue left on the piece when you apply a finish.
For about $8 IIRC, you can get a lifetime supply of Waxalit from Lee Valley. Put it where you DON'T want glue to stick - and it won't. Glue pops right off - wipe the area with alcohol to remove the Waxalit - which dries WHITE so you can see it - and apply the finish. No scraping, no careful chisel work - and no special time carefully applying the glue.
charlie b
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On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 19:37:58 -0700, charlieb wrote:

I couldn't find it on the web site. Are you sure they still carry it?
I've used ordinary paste wax (Trewax) for the same purpose. If I'm applying an oil based finish, I don't even have to worry about removing it.
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p2092&cat=1,43415,43440
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On Tue, 03 Jun 2008 13:29:51 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Thanks - I never would have thought of looking under "cleaners and lubricants."
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IIRC it was originally developed to making machinery surfaces slipperier.
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p2092&cat=1,43415,43440
They still carry it, but it's a bit more than charlie said it was. Regardless, it's worth its weight in gold. And it lasts forever.
Tansu
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Does this stuff have an advantage over using paste wax for this application? (I have paste wax already)

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It dries very white so it is very easy to see and it comes off very easily with a mild solvent like alcohol. Ah, also it is very thin and goes on very very very easily. A very little bit goes a very long way.
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Thanks. Ordering some tonight!

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Garage_Woodworks wrote:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id )736
I was just reading that article during a plane trip yesterday. Did anyone else notice that in the process of removing the glue "roll" with a brush, he got some glue on his raised panel?
I'm not sure that in my climate, I would have sufficient open time to do those steps without the glue starting to bond before I was done. I think it might work for raised panel doors, but for more complex glue-ups where multiple joints have to be set simultaneously, I know I couldn't make that work.
I've never had a problem with using a sharp plane or scraper to take off squeeze-out. As long as I don't get greedy in trying to take down too much, I've never had problems with tear-out or residual glue marks on the finish
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Mark & Juanita wrote:
snip

Think Windsor Chair, A&C piece with "slats" close together, insert partitions in a box insert, ... - anything where space is tight or not easily gotten to with a chisel or scraper - or even a crank necked corner chisel. Probably could get squeeze out removed with an assortment of dental tools - but the time involved alone makes trying Waxalit worth the price - which seems to have doubled since I bought my can. Didn't realize how much the USD has dropped in value - a Euro is now worth about $1.50 USD. Eight years ago it was $0.94 USD. We've come an long ways baby - just in the wrong direction.
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On Tue, 03 Jun 2008 21:13:29 -0700, charlieb wrote:

Hey, don't knock it. I buy things direct from various countries including the US and £1=$2 is great from where I stand.
Anything American is usually £1=$1 by the time it gets to the UK-which is one reason why US cars have had a hard time getting a hold in the market. :-(
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On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 18:14:39 +0000, PCPaul wrote:

Strangely enough, when we went to the Europe in 1970 the ratio in the UK was the same $2 to the pound. Of course, the German mark was 25 cents :-).
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charlieb wrote:

Oh, I wasn't disagreeing with your approach. I pre-finish most of my stuff lately and the wax makes removing glue squeeze-out easy. My comment was directed at the FWW approach. Your approach, or my pre-finish approach both work well with complex glue-ups. The glue-up you describe, at least the way I envision it, would not lend itself to the FWW approach very well -- too easy to get stuff to sieze up while taking care of the glue roll.
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On Tue, 03 Jun 2008 17:52:04 -0700, Mark & Juanita

I've heard in your climate you don't even need clamps! <G>
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B A R R Y wrote:

Actually, that's not true. We need the clamps to drive the wood home while it is setting; if you try to drive the wood home by hand, it freezes up mid-joint. ;-)
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wrote:

What you need to use is the "glue capsule" Drop it in the joint and as the joint closes it crushes the capsule releasing the glue.
Now all you gotta do is invent that glue capsule. LOL
Actually there are dry glues that are activated by ultrasonic waves. Can you imagine applying a glue that is not sticky, assembling, clamping and then waving an ultrasinic device around the joint?
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Leon wrote:

And I wouldn't even have to buy an ultrasonic wand! I'd just ask my mother-in-law out to the shop, and remind her that I don't attend church. The resulting hour-long tirade of red-faced screeching, much of which extends into the ultrasonic range, would activate any such glue within a 200 meter radius.
I could amuse myself and form glue bonds at the same time!
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