Please post your results as I am quite interested in them. I am looking for the best glue for this application and can asfford to wait. My goal is to have it completed by late august when the tomatoes, jalepinos and tomatillos are ripe and ready for salsa making.
TIA,
"patriarch snipped-for-privacy@nospam.comcastDOTnet" "Al Reid" wrote in
Any thoughts on biscuits as opposed to dowels? I am not sure I could drill accurately enough w/o a drill press.
I believe you both are mistaken.
drill accurately enough w/o a drill press.
Neither. Just apply glue and clamp the boards. Consider this. Glue in general is stronger than the wood itself when used in line with the grain. Most often if the glue and or joint is not compromised the wood breaks before the glued joint line. Dowels and or biscuits simply reinforce and make the wood itself stronger and add more strength when attaching a piece by it's end grain. Biscuits will assist in alignment in any application and dowels work better when attaching long pieces of wood at their ends where the glue does not hold well at all.
Leon,
Ok, I will just use glue. BTW, what was your recommended glue?
The cutting board that I made in Jr. High in 1969 is still holding up well with being soaked daily. At that time I used Weld Wood. This was a dry power glue that you mixed with water.
Since, there have been many water proof glues that are easier to use. Titebond 3 will probably be great for this application. I do not recommend the #2 as I have had a butcher block fail at the joints that were in fact reinforced with 3/4" dowels. I built that butcher block in 1980 and 6 years later the joints began to fail. This butcher block saw a lot of use and water. The dowels did not prevent failure of the joint, they simply prevented the butcher block from falling apart then the joint failed. Still, the butcher block was useless. #2 is "Weather Resistant", not "Water Proof". The Titebond #3 is stated as being water proof.
I'd go with Titebond #3.
As a P.S here, as with any thing you glue, be sure to totally cover the surface to be glued with glue. Do not just run a wavy bead of glue on the surface. Coat the entire surface. You can spread the glue with a stiff piece of plastic similar to a credit card.
Leon,
Thanks for the input. I guess I will go out and get some TiteBond III.
I always use an acid brush to spread the glue. The credit card may, however, be a better option in this case.
Care to send me some as I did not plant any this year:-)?
best glue
late august
however, be a better option in this case.
LOL, I almost always use that type brush and I plunk it into a glass of water to keep it from drying out during the day.
The credit card is faster on wide surfaces.
for the best glue for this application and can asfford to
After epoxy, it's all down hill.
Lew
I know that the Titebond III container says "Waterproof" right on the front of it, but it also says "Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline". That sounds more like "water resistant" that "waterproof".
Wayne
That's my opinion as of now. I think I'll add some Gorilla Glue into the mix as well, for the sake of comparison. I'm betting that GG does better than T3.....any takers?
JP
The glue from contented cows?
Agki
I know that testimonial evidence is always suspect however, I made a Maple cutting board and knife holder some 15 years ago and they have held up to virtually daily use with no problems. Edge glued only with yellow carpenters glue, I don't remember the actual brand.
It is after all only a cutting board.
Dave
PS The last one I made, I did use Titebond 3. I'll check back in another 15 years and let you know if its still holding up.
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I've been using a 4" long bolt attached to a handle to spread glue on edges lately. It really works well - and I think that someone here on the wreck wreckommended it. The threads sort of smear out the glue into an evenly lined coat. Sort of like a pair of corduroys. Thanks!
JP
OK, I've glued up 3 sets each of T1, T2, T3 and Gorilla Glue, and am planning on soaking them tomorrow. What time intervals do you think I should attempt to break them at? I'm thinking the first set after 4 hours, the second after 12, and the third after 24 or 48. Does this sound reasonable?
JP
What if you clamped one end horizontally to a bench and tied a rope around the other end with a weight hanging on it? Add weight until something breaks.
-- John, in Minnesota
First thought is to check the water temperature. Another is to give an extended cure time, just to be sure. Also, if you're going to stress with increasing weight until the joint fails, I'd include a test board for each glue, which did _not_ get soaked in water.
I also suspect most wet-failures are gradual. That the glue becomes more plastic, and becomes subject to creep and slow fracture. IOW, a much smaller (than load limit) weight when applied for several hours might well pull apart the joint. This could happen even if the soaked board showed the same weight limit as the unsoaked one.
Yet another factor, >>
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